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You're Back, How Was It?

2008-08-10T16:57:00.003-04:00

2008 Summer Road Trip, 9093 miles 186 hrs 35 min (driving time)

So the trip is over. Overall I would say the the trip was a success. We did a lot of traveling and saw a lot of the United States. I got to go to many places that have been on my list of places to see for a long time.

The biggest highlights of this year's trip was not a location but the time we were joined by Mary and my dad on the road. Getting to share part of experience with Mary was very special. It changed the dynamic of our group for the better. Sharing the experience is always better than the telling of it later. I really enjoyed having my dad along. The boys had a great time and were almost as disappointed when he had to leave as when Mary did. I think he a good time and I also hope he can join us again in the future on a trip. We both still have Yellowstone and Glacier National Parks on our lists.

It was great to visit relatives that we had not seen in a long time or who the boys had not met. Neal is always great to visit with. Seeing Aunt Norma was wonderful. We promise it will not be so long until we visit again.

The beauty and diversity of our National Parks were definite highlights. These places that we have set aside to preserve our heritage and protect our natural wonders are some of the most special places in our country. The history we learned was so much more poignant when standing in the spot it occurred. Also hope burns a bit stronger that we as a nation can make our country and the world a better place if we continue to protect the land.

WPA Poster of Arches National Park

WPA Poster of Bandelier National Monument

Route 66 was a great drive. For awhile I was confused on how I felt about that part of the trip. To me it was, "okay." Then I realized the problem. It was that we didn't camp as much as I wanted to. Route 66 is a trip that begs to stay in the motels along its course. Once I had that out of the way I can confidently say it is a great way to cross the country. We met a lot of neat people and saw some really cool stuff. I am glad that we drove Route 66. After all how often do you get to sleep in a wigwam?

A Postcard of Route 66

I hope the boys remember this trip fondly even if they do not remember all the details. When I look back to places I visited 30 years ago I find that my memory of them include very few details though the trip is deeply ingrained in my "mythology". The memories from this trip, driving the Generals Highway with mouths agape in total awe at the trees towering over us, the feeling of wonder looking out over the vastness of the Grand Canyon, and the amazement of the spectacular beauty of the Yosemite valley will last forever. At least one place we visited is no longer. A few days after we left Arches National Park Wall Arch fell into memory.

Now the planning for next year has started. Shorter than the last two years. We are going backpacking on Isle Royale National Park for two weeks with a circle tour of Lakes Superior and Huron thrown in. Right now though we are again headed to the shores of Cape Hatteras for a week of hanging out on the beach in the sun.

By the numbers:

Days on the Road: 39 days
Totals Miles Driven: 9,093 miles
Time Spent Driving: 7 days 18 hrs 35 min
Gas: 420.29 gallons at $1,734
Food: $1,135
Lodging: $554
Entry Fees: $377
States Visited: 19
National Park Units Visited: 28
Junior Ranger Badges: 22 each

The Prairie Dogs are Pretty Big in South Dakota

Mounds, Taliesin, Madison and Home

2008-08-06T00:15:00.010-04:00

Joe Standing Tall with the Jolly Green Giant

Waking up early we were on the road by 5:30 am. Our first stop of the day was the Jolly Green Giant in Blue Earth, MN. He stands 55 feet tall and was created in 1978 to mark the completion of I-90. Ned was still asleep so Joe ran out and stood at his feet. He doesn't normally wear a t-shirt though at Christmas he sports a nice red scarf.

After leaving Blue Earth we were back in the Iowa countryside on our way to Effigy Mounds National Monument on the Mississippi River just north of Marquette, IA. There we hiked up to the bluffs over the river to view some of the 200 mounds that are preserved by the monument. Most of the mounds are conical or bar shaped but 31 are effigies in the shape of birds and bears. We also hiked out to Fire Point Overlook with views of the Mississippi River and Wisconsin. At Eagle Rock Ned saw a bald eagle soar past. When we returned to the visitor center the boys received their 22nd Junior Ranger badge of the trip.

Little Bear Mound

Joe Reading How the Mounds Were Built

The Upper Mississippi River from Fire Point Overlook

Leaving Effigy Mounds we crossed the Mississippi River and to Prairie du Chien, WI. When we crossed heading west the river was high with flood waters and we were high with excitement for the trip ahead. Now crossing east 37 days later the river was back to normal and we were high with the anticipation of returning home and back to Mary.

After a quick lunch we set off for Spring Green, WI. We had a 1:30 pm tour at Taliesin the home of Frank Lloyd Wright. Taliesin has been on my places to see list for a long time and I was excited for this opportunity to visit. Taliesin is where Frank Lloyd Wright spent a large part of his youth working on the farm. It is also where he located the Taliesin Fellowship to provide architectural training with a"learn by doing" approach that stressed appreciation of all the arts. Students and staff lived and worked on the Taliesin property. Frank Lloyd Wright also used the property to develop the ideas and techniques he later applied to buildings he designed. The community continues today as the Frank Lloyd Wright School of Architecture whose members are still known informally as the Taliesin Fellowship and who reside at Taliesin during the summer months.

We went on a tour of the Hillside House. Wright designed Hillside in 1902 for his aunts, who ran an children’s school based on the motto "learn by doing." Wright's building was as innovative as the school it housed. After his aunts retired and sold Wright the building he used it to accommodate the Taliesin Fellowship. Highlights of the tour are the Assembly Hall, the Drafting Studio where work is still done, the Romeo and Juliet Windmill Tower, and a small theater with a handmade curtain given to Wright by his students. We will have to return to visit the main house when the boys are older.

The Entrance to Taliesin

Hillside House at Taliesin

The Romeo and Juliet Windmill at Taliesin

We left Taliesin and drove through the Wisconsin countryside to Madison, WI. We drove through town a bit and found ourselves by the capitol building. We stopped and went up to the sixth floor museum and observation deck where we could look out over Madison and the picturesque waters of Lake Monona and Lake Mendota. Madison was a place I would like to visit again.

After leaving the Madison we were only about seven hours from home. So we headed south skirted Chicago and then east through Indiana and into Michigan. We had dinner at Redamak's in New Buffalo, MI for dinner. I had told Mary that we taking another day and driving home through the Upper Peninsula of Michigan so when we arrived home just after 11:00 pm she was surprised. The homecoming was wonderful.

The Wisconsin State Capitol

The Interior of the Capitol Dome

The View of Madison from the Dome

Blue Earth, MN to Ypsilanti, MI, 731 miles 12 hrs 13 min

Badlands, a Corn Palace and Loose Meats

2008-08-05T00:08:00.013-04:00

Hey Ned and Joe, Where Did You Find Harvey?

It started to rain last night and when we awoke we found that water had seeped up through the floor. It wasn't even that hard of a rain. It is always annoying to break camp when everything is wet. At least the rain had stopped.

After a stop in Rapid City, SD for gas we were heading east on I-90. We didn't have have far to go until our first stop, Wall, SD the home of the famous Wall Drug Store. The store is more like a mall with a drug store, gift shop, restaurant, other stores and a low key amusement park. It was just a typical drug store until 1930's when the owner's wife had the idea to advertise free ice water to travellers on their way to the newly opened Mount Rushmore. Wall Drug also earns much of its fame from its billboards that can be seen for hundreds of miles throughout South Dakota and neighboring states. It still gives away about 20,000 cups of water per day during the peak tourist season.

The place was packed with motorcyclists. We looked around a bit watched the T-Rex roar and then left. We didn't get any ice water unless the drinking fountain counts. Just south of Wall is Badlands National Park's Pinnacles Entrance and the beginning of the Badlands Loop Road.

Joe Likes to Ride the Jackalopes

Ned Rides Ol' Hopalong

Motorcycles Lined Up Outside of Wall Drug

Badlands National Park has one of the world's richest mammal fossil beds and the country's largest expanse of protected prairie ecosystem but its main attraction is the landscape of sharply eroded buttes, pinnacles and spires. Because of the relatively wet summer the green of the grassland made for a sharp and beautiful contrast against the sandstone. At the visitor center we learned about the different animals that lived here in the past and now and the boys successfully completed their Junior Ranger books and received their badges.

The Badlands Stretch Out to the Horizon

This Way to the Visitors Center

Next was a quick stop at the Minuteman Missile National Historic Site but the tours of the underground launch control center and a missile silo were filled. We watched a short video about the Minuteman missiles.

We made an unexpected stop was at arest area where I-90 crosses the Missouri River near Chamberlain, SD. There was a Lewis & Clark interpretive center with maps and displays and an upper landing with a full size replica of the keelboat used by their Corps of Discovery to travel up the Missouri River. The keelboat opens onto an observation deck overlooking the Missouri River, right where Lewis & Clark camped.

200 miles east we stopped in Mitchell, SD to see the famous Corn Palace. Can you drive across South Dakota without stopping at the Corn Palace? The Corn Palace dates back to 1892 when early residents displayed the fruits of their harvest on the building's exterior. They continue the tradition with new murals created each year depicting an important facet of the lifestyle of South Dakota. The murals require thousands of bushels of corn, grains and grasses each year. We toured the inside of the building where there are more murals. There are also photos of the building from the last hundred years showing each year's exterior mural.

The Corn Palace, Mitchell, SD

Inside the Corn Palace

Ned and Joe are Acting Corny...

C0rn Palace Exterior Detail

From Mitchell we went to Sioux Falls then south and into Iowa to have dinner at Bob's Drive-In in Le Mars, IA. Western Iowa has a specialty called loosemeats which is a sandwich of ground beef that is cooked loose – unpattied – and served sauceless. At Bob's its called a Tavern and is very good. They also have really good milkshakes made with Blue Bunny Ice Cream which is made in Le Mars. The Bob Dog, a hot dog covered in loosemeats, is also really good.

It was pretty late and dark when we left Le Mars and turned north into Minnesota. Once back on the interstate we got as far as Blue Earth before pulling over at a rest area for some sleep.

Custer State Park, SD to Blue Earth, MN, 628 miles 10 hrs 58 min

Two Caves and Mount Rushmore at Night

2008-08-04T20:58:00.013-04:00

Joe and Ned Show Off Their Wind Cave Junior Ranger Badges

Today was a busy day. We started the morning at Jewel Cave National Monument. With 143 miles of tunnels and chambers mapped it is the second longest cave in the world. The glimmer of calcite crystals that fill the cave make up the "jewels" of Jewel Cave. Of the four different ranger led tours available to explore the cave we took The Lantern Tour. We entered the cave through the historic entrance carrying only oil lanterns to light our way.

The tour covered the original explored 1/2 mile of the cave and lasted an hour and 45 minutes. The ranger wore an older version of the uniform to give the tour a 1930's feel. It was a neat experience to explore a cave by only lantern light. We even saw a bat. After the tour we explored the visitor center and the boys received their Junior Ranger badges.

We Enter Jewel Cave for the Lantern Tour

Stairs into the Cave

We stopped in Custer, SD for lunch and then went to Wind Cave National Park. Wind Cave is the world's fourth longest and one of the most complex caves. It is well known for its boxwork, an unusual cave formation composed of thin calcite fins resembling honeycombs. Of the six cave tours offered we went on the Natural Entrance Tour. It includes a visit to the natural entrance then enters the cave through a man-made entrance and then down through the middle level of the cave. There are 300 stairs on the tour but most go down. At one spot the ranger turned off the lights and lit a candle to give an idea of how early tourists saw the cave. The tour lasted 1 hour and 15 minutes and we didn't have to climb back up the stairs, we took an elevator back to the visitors center where the boys received their 21st Junior Ranger badges of the trip.

Driving out of the park we saw a large herd of bison along with a prairie dog town. The prairie dogs were barking at anyone who came near them. In Custer State Park we saw a herd of Pronghorn Antelope and some wild burros.

The Natural Entrance of Wind Cave

The Stairway Into Wind Cave

Wind Cave's Famous Boxwork

Joe and Ned, Spelunkers

A Prairie Dog Barks a Warning

Pronghorn Antelope Along the Road

I really wanted to see the lighting of Mount Rushmore in the evening. So we drove back to Mount Rushmore on Iron Mountain Road, another part of the Peter Norbeck Scenic Byway. To lessen the impact on the natural habitat when it was constructed the road sometimes doubles on itself in pigtail loops to climb up the mountain. There are also three tunnels that frame Mount Rushmore as you travel north.

When we got to Mount Rushmore we visited the gift shop and then found a seat in the amphitheater. The Evening Program started with a ranger talk on the presidents, patriotism and our nation's history. After the talk the ranger called all servicemen and women to the stage for a flag ceremony. It was followed by a film called "Freedom: America's Lasting Legacy." As the film neared the end the lights started to come on lighting the memorial. It was an inspiring event to watch. On the way back to the campsite we would catch glimpses of the lit sculptures as drove along the highway.

Before we got back we made one last stop at the Norbeck Overlook to look out over the Black Hills and the glowing memorial to four of our nation's greatest presidents. It was pretty late when we finally got to camp. Tomorrow we were heading east and home.

Mount Rushmore Framed by a Tunnel on Iron Mountain Road

Ned and Joe Hamming it Up Presidential Style

Mount Rushmore National Memorial at Night

Devils Tower to Rocky Faces

2008-08-03T20:43:00.017-04:00

Devils Tower Early in the Morning

After last night's drive it would have been nice to sleep in a bit but since we slept in the car that didn't happen. Sleeping in the car is not very comfortable. The boys sleep reclined in their seats and I sort of lie down across the front seats where there is always something sticking into my back. There is one advantage, we are up and on the road early and since it was only 33 miles to Devils Tower National Monument we were there by 6:30 am.

Devils Tower rises 1267 feet above the Belle Fourche River. Many years ago it was hidden beneath the land and slowly appeared as the surrounding sandstone eroded. Over 20 tribes have a cultural affiliation with Devils Tower with many having stories about how it was created. Most talk about a giant bear scoring the Tower's sides with its claws. It is a sacred site for many American Indians and as we walked the base trail we could see offerings tied to many of the trees. In 1906 President Theodore Roosevelt proclaimed Devils Tower a National Monument, the first in the country.

We had a quick breakfast and then hiked the trail around the base of Devils Tower. It was very quiet on the trail and the boys enjoyed clambering on the boulders strewn about the base. We watched climbers making their way to the top. The visitor center was open when we finished so the boys were able to get their Junior Ranger Badges.

Devils Tower National Monument

Devils Tower on the Horizon

As we headed east on I-90 we stopped to check out the Vore Buffalo Jump near Beulah, WY. Active from 1500 to 1800 A.D. it is a natural sinkhole that Native Americans used to trap bison by driving them over the edge of the hole. This allowed the Native Americans to process large quantities of meat and hides to survive the prairie winters. It was discovered during the construction of Highway I-90. There is a building with displays about the site and then you walk down into the sinkhole where there is an excavated section with some of the many bones that were piled up by the Native Americans working there.

The Bottom of the Buffalo Jump

Buffalo Remains at the Vore Buffalo Jump

After entering South Dakota we drove through Sturgis, SD home to one of the largest gatherings of motorcycle enthusiasts in the world. Each year around 400,000 bikers come to this small town to hang out for a week. Though the official start of the week was Monday there were thousands of bikers everywhere. Some were riding the coolest bikes I have ever seen.

It is not far from Sturgis to the Mount Rushmore National Memorial. Like everywhere else it was packed with bikers. Mount Rushmore has changed quite a bit a since I was there 30 years ago. In 1998 the park service finished a complete redevelopment of the visitor facilities. The only thing left unchanged are the heads on the mountain.

The sculpture of the presidents is impressive. The boys were excited to visit. We joined a Ranger Walk along the Presidential Trail which follows the base of the mountain and we heard about the natural and cultural history of Mount Rushmore and the Black Hills. One thing we learned is that portraits of George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Theodore Roosevelt and Abraham Lincoln represent the birth, growth, development and preservation of our nation.

After the walk we went to Gutzon Borglum's studio where his original model of Mount Rushmore is displayed. It started to rain so we stayed and listened to a ranger talk about the tools and techniques used in the carving of the mountain sculpture. We also went to the Lincoln Borglum Museum. There are exhibits on the mountain carving, the presidents, the sculptor and the workers and a movie on carving Mount Rushmore. Before leaving the boys received their Junior Ranger badges.

From Mount Rushmore we drove the Needles Highway, part of the Peter Norbeck Scenic Byway, to our campsite in Custer State Park. You can't be in a rush when driving the Needles Highway especially during Sturgis. Only 14 miles long it passes between granite towers and over pine covered mountains with many twists and turns and stunning scenery. There are also three narrow tunnels blasted out of the granite with the narrowest only 10' 4" wide. Along the way we stopped was at Sylvan Lake in Custer State Park where scenes for National Treasure were filmed.

Custer State Park encompasses 71,000 acres and an abundance of wildlife. Just before got to camp we passed a group of male Bighorn Sheep. Once camp was setup and we had some dinner we went the campground evening program on the animals of Custer State Park.

Bikers Line the Street in Keystone, SD

Joe and Ned Having Fun at Mount Rushmore

Mount Rushmore National Memorial

George Washington First President First Carved

George, Tom and Teddy

Lincoln Preserver of Our Nation

Moorcroft, WY to Custer State Park, SD, 209 miles 5 hrs 25 min

Westward Trails as We Head North

2008-08-02T10:06:00.014-04:00

Ned and Joe Follow in the Footsteps and Ruts of the Westward Expansion

Today turned out to be a long day and night. We left Aunt Norma's early. It was wonderful visiting and catching up and the boys enjoyed meeting her. We hope to see her again soon.

We were headed to Devils Tower National Monument in northeast Wyoming. On the way we planned to visit Chimney Rock and Scotts Bluff in Nebraska. As we were leaving I realized my phone's battery was not charging again so we stopped in Cheyenne, WY hoping there was an AT&T store. It turns out there aren't any in Wyoming. In desperation I tapped the battery on my knee three times. It worked! While in Cheyenne we parked outside the state capitol building. Unfortunately the capitol building was closed so we only saw the outside. With the phone crisis over we turned east towards Nebraska.

State Capitol of Wyoming in Cheyenne, WY

Our first stop in Nebraska was Chimney Rock National Historic Site. Located in the valley of the North Platte River it is the most famous landmark on the Oregon Trail. The site is run by the Nebraska State Historical Society which in addition to Chimney Rock also includes the Ethel and Christopher J. Abbott Visitor Center. There are exhibits on the landmark's history along with a hands-on opportunity to "pack your wagon." The boys with the help of another family loaded a wagon to make the arduous journey west.

Chimney Rock a Landmark from the Past

The next stop was Scotts Bluff National Monument. Towering 800 feet above the North Platte River, Scotts Bluff is a natural landmark that has served as a marker for travelers on the Oregon, California, Mormon, and Pony Express Trails. The visitor center has exhibits on the history of the bluff and a gallery of William Henry Jackson's sketches, paintings, and photographs. We took Summit Road to the top of the bluff and hiked out to the overlooks. It was too hazy to see Chimney Rock but the views were still good. Returning to the visitor center the boys turned in their Junior Ranger books and received their badges. We stopped in the town of Scotts Bluff and had a late lunch at Rosita's a really good Mexican restaurant where everything is made to order, even the tortilla chips.

Scotts Bluff Towers Above the Oregon Trail

From High Atop Scotts Bluff

Now we headed back to Wyoming and Fort Laramie National Historic Site. For the pioneers on the Oregon Trail Ft. Laramie meant a third of their trip was over and and they had reached the gateway to the Rocky Mountains. Here, most rested and regrouped while some gave up the dream and turned back. The park service is still restoring parts of the fort but even so there was a lot to see. Filling out the Junior Ranger workbooks had us visiting most of the park and the boys successfully received their badges.

Fort Laramie Parade Ground

Joe and Ned Relax at an Officers Quarters

Our last two stops for the day were in Guernsey, WY where we visited Register Cliff and the Guernsey Ruts. Register Cliff is a sandstone cliff where hundreds of emigrants on the westward trails inscribed their names. It is one of three "recording areas" located within Wyoming, the other two being Independence Rock and Names Hill. It was amazing to see all of the different inscriptions carved into the rock.

Near Register Cliff is the Guernsey Ruts. Here the Oregon trail was forced away from the river through a ridge of soft sandstone. The track is worn to a depth of five feet, creating some of the best preserved ruts remaining along the length of the Oregon Trail. The geography of the area dictated that practically every wagon that went west crossed the ridge in exactly the same place, with impressive results. In places, the ruts dip down over five feet, so you can't miss them.

Token of Travellers Past at Register Cliff

Ned Inspects the Ruts of Wagons Past

It was getting late and I wanted to get as close to Devils Tower as possible so we could visit and get to the Black Hills of South Dakota the following day. The road started off fine and we drove through the low hills of eastern Wyoming graced with a beautiful sunset. As darkness fell the road turned from pavement to gravel and then dirt. As our headlights swept over the road birds would fly off the road and jack rabbits would run out attempting to cross and then veer off. A deer leaped in front of the car just missing a collision along with a couple of coyotes and a fox. We ran over a large snake in the road. The road turned to a track of wash outs and deep ruts. Once I came to a quick stop when I realized we were straddling a 4 ft deep gully. The last 6 miles were a real white knuckle ride until we came to a better road. We spent the night in Moorcroft, WY at a rest area off I 90.

Sunset Over the Eastern Hills of Wyoming

Lakewood, CO to Moorcroft, WY, 522 miles 9 hrs 41 min

Mile High City

2008-08-01T10:17:00.014-04:00

Ned and Joe are a Mile High in the Mile High City

Thursday morning we left Rocky Mountain National Park and headed for Denver. Before planning this trip I wasn't very aware of the park. I am glad that we had the chance to visit. It is a beautiful park and I hope that someday we will visit again for there are a lot more lakes to see and mountains to climb.

We were excited to go to Denver. Mary's Aunt Norma lives in Denver and she was kind to offer us a place to stay. I hadn't seen Norma in over 12 years and the boys had never met her. We were also going to meet up with my friend Sarah who had moved to Denver a few months ago.

As we left the park we drove through Estes Park and then Boulder where we stopped for breakfast. We also went to downtown Boulder to visit Into the Wind a kite store where I occasionally order kites. It was neat to see all of the kites in person and I ended up buying a couple. Afterwards we walked a little up the Pearl Street pedestrian mall looking at the shops.

Leaving Boulder we were soon in Golden, CO. As we drove through town I noticed a Coors Brewery Tour shuttle and out of curiosity I followed it. Coors offers free tours of the brewery so we joined one. We learned all sorts of things about how Coors , the largest brewer in the US, brews it beer and at the end we got to sample the wares. Well I did, the boys were not allowed to have any alcohol and I only had one glass.

After leaving Golden it was not long before we were at Aunt Norma's. It was wonderful to see her. We spent the afternoon catching up on how everyone was doing. After dinner I scrubbed the boys clean.

One of Adolph Coors' Original Brew Kettles Outside the Brewery Entrance

Ned and Joe Listen to the Brewery Tour

Joe Learns About Copper Mash Tuns

Today we toured Denver. We picked up Sarah and went to the Tattered Cover Book Store at their location in the old Lowenstein Theater on Colfax Street. The theater was completely refurbished. What was formerly a sunken stage now holds theater books and where box seats were there are now reading tables overlooking the main floor. The downstairs houses a great children's collection. I was happy to see walls lined with the photos of the authors who have done signings at the store.

After a quick lunch at a Greek diner we drove through Denver's City Park and then through LoDo and up to the capitol building. We had reservations for a Capitol Dome Tour but we were a bit early so we stopped into the Denver Library's Central Branch. Designed by Michael Graves it is a great place to explore. The Western History Collection on the fifth floor is especially impressive. The center of the room is an old windmill.

When it was time for our tour we walked up the street to the capitol. Colorado's capitol building was designed with the our nation's capitol in mind. A round brass cap embedded in the west entrance stairway reads, "Elevation: 5280 feet, One Mile High, 5-12-69." At 272 feet high the golden dome is plated with real 24 karat gold to commemorate Colorado's Gold Rush days. There are 99 steps to the dome observation level and the view from the dome looks out over Denver. There is also a museum with the history of the capitol. We looked in at the senate and house chambers. The first floor rotunda murals provide an artistic representation of the story of Colorado's water use with eight murals painted by Alan True and a poem written Thomas Hornsby Ferril, "the great poet of the West."

Afterward we stopped at the Wynkoop Brewery Denver's first brew pub for a drink. The boys played a game of pool and then joined another family in a game of shuffle board. Then we took Sarah home and met her partner Todd and his parents. For dinner Norma made a great pizza. Tomorrow we are heading north into Wyoming.

Thatcher Memorial Fountain in Denver's City Park

Denver Central Library's Western History Collection

"The Yearling" by Donald Lipski Outside the Library

Colorado's State Capitol Building

The Brass Mile High Marker

Sarah, Joe, and Ned Look Over Denver from the Dome

Looking Up at the Dome from the Rotunda

Here shall the melting Snows renew the Oxen/here Firewood is and here shall men build Cities

Rocky Mountain National Park, CO to Lakewood, CO, 83 miles 3 hrs 1 min

Mountians, Alpine Tundras, Lakes and Waterfalls

2008-07-30T18:23:00.008-04:00

Joe and Ned on a Rocky Mountain High

We had a long full day today. We started off the morning with a talk on the park's bighorn sheep. We learned about how their horns grow and why they come down from the mountains to places like Sheep Lake (it is the minerals in the mud.) After the talk we had an early lunch at the Endovalley Picnic area next to the Fall River before heading up the Old Fall River Road.

The Old Fall River Road was the first road in Rocky Mountain National Park to the park's high country. It was eventually replaced by the Trail Ridge Road and on the park's website they call the Old Fall River Road a "motor nature trail." The road was completed in 1921 and it is narrow and can be a bit steep in parts. It is 11 miles long, gravel, one-way uphill and has many switchbacks. It is not a hurry along road but a slower paced, relax and savor the experience road. It ends at Fall River Pass, 11,796 feet, near the Alpine Visitors Center.

Near the start we passed the alluvial fan scoured out by the 1982 Lawn Lake Flood which flooded part of the park and even the town of Estes Park. We stopped at Chasm Falls and hiked along the river to the spot where it plunged over the rocks and into a chasm. It was a beautiful morning and the rest of the drive was spent just enjoying the views.

When we reached the Alpine Visitor Center we hiked the Alpine Ridge Trail. It leads to the summit of a mountain near the visitor center. It was brisk and windy at the top and we were glad we wore our jackets. We had a quick snack at the visitor center before continuing along Trail Ridge Road. There were some places we wanted to see that we missed on the way into the park. One was at Rock Cut to hike the Tundra Communities Trail. It is just a quick hike through the alpine tundra and at the end there are some great rocks to climb. While the boys climbed I had a conversation with a couple from Rapid City, SD. Mentioning we were head for the Black Hills they told me that it was the start of Sturgis, a huge week long motorcycle rally and I should make sure we had a place to stay.

We also stopped at some overlooks like Many Parks Curve. At Hidden Valley the site of an old ski resort we worked on finishing our Junior Ranger books. When we got to the Beaver Meadows Visitor Center all three of us were able to receive Junior Ranger Badges. Then we drove to Bear Lake a beautiful alpine lake at the base of Hallett Peak and Flattop Mountain. One of Rocky Mountain National Park's most famous and popular trails is the Bear Lake Trail. It combines views of the mountains, the Bear Lake and a short walk, a 0.6 mile loop. It had started to rain a bit when we arrived but didn't last long. Just down the road a bit is the Glacier Gorge Trailhead where we hiked a little under a half mile to Alberta Falls. Glacier Creek thunders down this waterfall which is another of the park's more popular hiking destinations. Since we were there so late in the day we were pretty much alone. It also meant that we couldn't visit some of the other lakes in the area. There were hungry boys to feed.

We returned to the campsite pretty tired and hungry. We got a campfire going and sat around it eating our ramen noodle dinner. Tomorrow we are leaving this beautiful park and going to Denver.

The Bighorn Sheep Ranger Talk

Hiking to Chasm Falls

The Way Up the Alpine Ridge Trail

The Never Summer Mountains

The Trail Ridge Road

Longs Peak

Looking East Along Horseshoe Park

The View From Our Campsite

Picturesque Bear Lake

Joe and Ned at Alberta Falls

A Beautiful Drive

2008-07-29T19:44:00.011-04:00

Joe and Ned in the Snow in July

We were up and broke camp in good time this morning. We were headed for Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado. We had reservations at a campground in the park so we were not pressed for time. From Moab, UT we turned onto Utah Route 128, the Upper Colorado Scenic Byway, and followed the Colorado River north. The river here has cut a wide canyon and the red rock walls in the early morning light are beautiful.

Soon we were on Interstate 70 and back in Colorado. We stopped in Grand Junction, CO to see an eye doctor. The piece of contact was still in my eye and really bothering me. After successfully having it extracted by the very helpful Melinda Hicks OD we explored downtown and had breakfast at a bagel shop.

I70 through the mountains of Colorado is a beautiful drive especially through the Glenwood canyon. The highway flows with the Colorado River. The lanes pass over and under each other and at times you are alone as the other lane pierces the mountain through a tunnel. Along the highway there is a multi-use trail that weaves in and out of the highway and river. We made a quick stop at Vail for gas. We passed through the Eisenhower Tunnel built under the Continental Divide at an elevation of 11,158 feet, the highest tunnel in the US. It is also the longest tunnel in the Interstate highway system, 1.7 miles.

Leaving the interstate we turned north onto US Route 40. We had a pleasant lunch in Empire, CO and then drove up Clear Creek Canyon and over Berthoud Pass, 11,307 feet, and back across the Continental Divide. This was another beautiful drive with fantastic views.

We entered Rocky Mountain National Park at the south entrance and stopped at the Kawuneeche Visitor Center. We picked up Junior Ranger books for all of us and checked out what to see in the western part of the park. We were now on Trail Ridge Road the highest continuous paved road in the nation.

Our first stop was a quick hike on the Coyote Valley Trail through the Kawuneeche, Arapaho for coyote, Valley. Sometimes elk and moose are sighted but all we saw were some fish in the river. If we thought the Colorado River was cold at Lee's Ferry it was even colder here so close to its origin.

Our next stop was Lake Irene, a pretty little alpine lake. It started to lightly rain as we parked so we took a quick walk around part of the lake. As we were returning to the car we saw a pine marten which is a pretty rare sight. Next was Milner Pass, 10,758 feet, where Trail Ridge Road crosses the Continental Divide. We took a short hike to stand in a bit of remaining snow pack nearby. On a ridge overhead there were bighorn sheep and a man walking back from the snow said there was beaver. It was a marmot sitting on a rock eating some grass. While we slipped and played in the snow we realized we were not alone. A small herd of bighorn sheep had walked right up to us. As we watched them they climbed up the steep hillside and joined the others on the ridge. As we walked back to the car we saw a herd of elk lying down near a small pond.

At Medicine Bow Curve we took a quick alpine hike to look at wildflowers. We startled a ptarmigan as walked by some bushes. The Alpine Visitor Center was closed but we saw more elk and a big marmot on the a wall. A German visitor showed me a hole in his pants where a marmot walk up and bit it. He was so happy. The Rock Cut overlook had a bunch of pikas and a family of marmots running around. As we approached the campground we came across a group of mule deer in the woods.

We had camp set up in time to attend the campground ranger program on Our National Parks. We learned that there are 29 different types of park units from parks, monument, memorials, historic parks, to lake shores.

Driving Along the Upper Colorado Scenic Byway

Cows on Board Get Free Soup

After This Stretch, No More Red Rocks

Kawuneeche Valley

Joe Checks the Water Temperature While Ned Throws Rocks

Kawuneeche Valley From Fairview Curve

Some of the Bighorn Sheep That Visited Us

Joe is Going East and Ned is Going West

Cache la Poudre River Valley From Medicine Bow Curve

Mountain Flox Still Blooming in the Alpine Tundra

The Lone Marmot

Moab, UT to Rocky Mountain National Park Moraine Campground, CO, 419 miles 9 hrs 58 min

Arches National Park in the Sun

2008-07-28T09:43:00.008-04:00

Joe and Ned Standing Beneath Wall Arch

It rained again last night but by morning it was dry. It is the monsoon season. We started off the day hiking the 7.2 mile Devils Garden Trail including the Primitive Loop. There are nine arches to visit including Landscape Arch. We started off a bit late and arrived at the trailhead around 9:30 am.

There are short spurs to Pine Tree Arch and Tunnel Arch almost right away. Then after about three quarters of a mile is Landscape Arch. For most visitors Landscape Arch is the high point of the Devils Garden. It is a slender ribbon of stone 290 feet long and 105 feet above the desert floor. Landscape Arch is probably in the last stages of its existence. In 1991 a 60 foot section dropped from the arch making it thinner. The trail continues northward past Wall Arch a very accessible arch. Then a short spur leads to Navajo and Partition Arches. Partition Arch is two large holes in the rock face. The main trail ends at Double O Arch a little over two miles from the trailhead.

To return to the trailhead you can retrace your steps or you can turn north from Double O Arch, and take the loop trail that goes back through Fin Canyon. This trail is what the Park Service calls a "primitive trail." It is not as well developed as the main Devils Garden Trail, but it is quite easy to follow. The trail wanders through thin stone fins that were formed millions of years ago when the ground rose beneath a solid block of sandstone, causing it to fracture and separate into long, parallel vertical sheets. These fins are the primary reason why so many arches have been formed in Arches National Park. Private Arch is an especially beautiful arch and lives up to its name because you are usually the lone visitor.

After spending about a mile in the fins the trail breaks out on the eastern side of Devils Garden and into a wide wash. At this point I realized I was in trouble. With the lack of shade my body quickly becoming dehydrated. On top of that this is where I ran out of water. As we hiked on I got worse. I had to get to the main trail if I wanted to walk out of the park and not be carried. Once we got there I managed about another half mile until we came to a large hill which I didn't think I could climb. I found a shady spot in the rocks and sent Joe to find a ranger for help.

After about fifteen minutes Joe returned with some water bottles. He had told a group of people that I needed help and they gave him their water and went to find a ranger. The water was just what I needed. After drinking both bottles I decided to try for the parking lot and the water spigot there. As I stepped out on the trail I wondered where the hill was and Ned said that we had already gone over it. I had been really out of it. On the way to the parking lot a park worker gave me more water and walked with me. After sitting and drinking more water at the parking lot I felt much better.

We drove to the visitor center where the boys finished their Junior Ranger booklets and received their badges. We went back to the campground and hung out at the pool for a couple of hours. I drank lots of water. After showering one of my contacts stuck in my eye. I couldn't get it all out. We went to the Moab Diner for dinner and then the coolness of the library for the rest of the evening. By the time we went to bed I felt much better though my shirt will probably never be the same.

It was an experience that I will try to avoid repeating. We should have started a little earlier and taken more water. It was amazing how bad I felt in such a small amount of time. On the way out we passed some hikers going out on the trail and most of them didn't have water. I tried to warn them.

Pine Tree Arch, Ned Standing in the Bottom Middle

Landscape Arch is 290 Feet Long

The Devils Garden Trail Follows the Fins

Ned and Joe Sitting Partition Arch

Joe Checks Out the Neat Rock Formations

Ned Found a Nice Little Hole

Looking Into Fin Canyon

Double O Arch

Joe Trekking Through Private Arch

The Devils Garden Trail

San Jaun Skyway to Arches

2008-07-27T21:31:00.024-04:00

Joe on the Run Through Molas Pass 10,910 Feet

The rain started again in the night and we awoke to find that the tent had leaked. It seeped up through the floor and there was a spot near the door that had formed a puddle. We quickly broke camp and packed a wet tent hoping that we would be able to dry it out at tonight's stop.

Soon after leaving Mesa Verde we stopped in Durango, CO to have breakfast. As we pulled into town we were greeted by the 8:15 am Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad leaving town for Silverton. The D&SNGR is now an excursion train that runs coal-fired, steam powered locomotives on the same tracks miners and ore used over a century ago. As we waited for the train to pass the crossing we waved hello at the passengers. Breakfast was at the Durango Diner. They have huge pancakes and a good green chili. I had the biscuits and gravy and green chili. Pretty tasty. The one disappointment was the cinnamon roll we ordered. It was really dry.

From Durango we headed north onto Colorado 550 also known as the Million Dollar Highway and part of the San Juan Skyway. The route through the mountains has three passes over 10,000 feet and is one of the most beautiful drives I have taken. The weather was perfect which made it even more splendid. Water in snowmelt streams cascaded down the sides of the mountains and wildflowers added bursts of color. We stopped at one spot to wade in a stream but the water was near freezing. As we headed north we passed through a number of small towns and even some ghost towns. This area was booming in the late nineteenth century and towns came and went with the fortunes of the mines.

Once we reached Ridgeway, CO we turned west and into Utah. As we left the mountains we returned to the brown and red rock of the Colorado Plateau. Soon we were in Moab, UT and then Arches National Park.

The Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad

The Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad Movie

Mountain Wildflowers

Whipple Penstemon Blooms Near a Snowmelt Fed Stream

Tunnel on the Skyway

The Idorado Mine Near Silverton, CO

The View Along the Million Dollar Highway

Utah is Straight Ahead

When we reached Arches National Park we were disappointed to find the campground was full. So we turned back to Moab and found a campsite at Canyonlands Campground. We set up some clotheslines and hung the tent up to dry. While the tent dried we drove back to Arches to do a little exploring since it was still fairly early in the afternoon.

Arches National Park was created in 1929 as a National Monument to protect and preserve the over 2,400 natural sandstone arches, like the world-famous Delicate Arch, as well as many other unusual rock formations. In 1971 congress changed its status to National Park. As you drive into the park you begin to see the extraordinary features that are part of a landscape of contrasting colors, landforms and textures that is unlike any other I have seen in the world.

On the road we passed many rock formations like the Three Gossips and the Organ. A landscape of petrified dunes flowed off to the right and the Great Wall made a barrier on the left. We drove past Balanced Rock and then to the parking lot for the Delicate Arch Overlook. We hiked to the upper overlook and arrived near sunset. It was wild being on the sliprock as the sun was setting and the wind whistled around us. At the end of the trail we looked out over a canyon to Delicate Arch on the other side. Unlike the Grand Canyon, or perhaps because of our recent visit there, the landscape was more accessible, more human. It didn't feel that you would get lost in it.

Since it was late we returned to Moab and had dinner. The tent was all dried out when we returned to camp so we set it up and went to sleep.

The Three Gossips and Sheep Rock

Balanced Rock

Delicate Arch at Sunset From the Overlook

Balanced Rock Looks Like the Thumb to a Giant Hand

Mesa Verde National Park, CO to Arches National Park, UT, 241 miles 5 hrs 40 min

Exploring the Dwellings of the Ancients

2008-07-26T10:39:00.002-04:00

Joe and Ned Enter the Kiva at Spruce Tree House

Mesa Verde National Park was established in 1906 by President Theodore Roosevelt to "preserve the works of man," the first national park to do so. The Ancestral Pueblo people made it their home for over 700 years, from A.D. 600 to A.D. 1300. There are over 4,000 known archaeological sites, including 600 cliff dwellings.

Friday morning we were up and ready for our first cliff dwelling tour, 9:00 am tour at Cliff Palace. After a quick breakfast we drove through the park to Chapin Mesa. Cliff Palace is the largest cliff dwelling in the park. Ninety percent of the cliff dwellings contain 10 rooms or less and one-third have one or two rooms. This means that the more famous cliff dwellings like Cliff Palace (150 rooms), Balcony House (40 rooms), and Long House (150 rooms) are the exception. We started at the Cliff Palace Overlook with a talk by a ranger. Since the tour is considered strenuous because of the five ladders and 100 foot elevation change the rangers want to make sure that you can make it and if you feel like you cannot, turn back now.

The dwelling itself is amazing. We were the first tour so there was no one else in the dwelling. The quiet of the canyon made the emptiness of the alcove more apparent. We learned about the differing theories on why the ancient peoples moved to the cliff alcoves from their mesa top homes and why they left Mesa Verde. Most likely the answer to both questions is resource depletion. While we were on the tour a boy about Joe's age passed out. It was pretty shocking but he was okay. He hadn't eaten breakfast.

After Cliff Palace we toured Balcony House. Balcony House is labeled as an Adventurous Cliff Dwelling Tour by the park. To enter the dwelling you climb a 32 foot ladder and to exit crawl through a 12 foot long tunnel and climb up a 60 foot open rock face with two 10 foot ladders. At least we didn't have to go the way the original inhabitants used, small hand and foot holds chipped into the cliff face. An interesting fact we learned was that bodies found with broken bones were very few and they were of the old. Balcony House is named for the balconies that were built on the outside of the houses.

After the tour we did a short hike on the Soda Canyon Overlook Trail. This leads to an overlook for a view of Balcony House. We were pretty hungry by now so we dropped into Spruce Tree Terrace for lunch. After lunch we walked down to Spruce Tree House which is the best preserved of the cliff dwellings and even has some parts restored. The boys climbed down into a kiva to see what it was like. We then visited the Chapin Mesa Museum. It has dioramas of Ancestral Puebloan life and exhibits of prehistoric artifacts of Ancestral Puebloan culture. While visiting the museum the boys received their Junior Ranger badges.

Driving along the Mesa Top Loop we made a few stops to see earlier pit houses where the Ancestral Puebloans lived before moving to the cliff dwellings. Then we headed out of the park to Cortez. On the way we stopped at Park Point Overlook the highest point in the park at 8572 ft with a 360 degree view of the surrounding countryside.

We were going to go to the library but it was closed so we stopped at the grocery store for dinner supplies and then back to the park. It started to rain but stopped after a half hour. Later we went to the campground ranger program on the history of the Civilian Conservation Corps and their work in Mesa Verde National Park and then to bed.

The Park Entrance When it Wasn't Raining

Cliff Palace

Ned and Joe Look Over Cliff Palace

Ned Knows the Answer

Joe Reviews Balcony House Before Our Tour

The Big Ladder From the Bottom

Climbing the Big Ladder to Balcony House

The Tunnel Out of Balcony House

Joe and Ned Climb Up the Cliff

Balcony House From the Soda Canyon Overlook

Square Tower House is the Tallest in the Park

Spruce Tree House from the Park Superintendent's Porch

This morning started with a tour of Long House on Wetherhill Mesa. It is a 12 mile drive to the parking area where a tram takes you to the start of the tour. But first the rangers went through their warning speech about climbing, falling, staying on the trail and not touching anything. Long House is the second largest cliff dwelling in Mesa Verde. One interesting feature of Long House is the Great Kiva, an open air kiva like those of Chaco Canyon. Archaeologists believe this is a sign that some of the people from Chaco Canyon came here after their culture collapsed. There are only two 15 foot ladders to climb at Long House making it a nice walk.

After the tour we headed into Cortez and spent some time at the library. We had dinner at Let it Grow a garden center that has a small cafe inside. Our dinner was very good. As we headed back to the park the skies began to darken and it began to pour. As we passed through the park entrance it turned to hail. I worried about our tent but as we came to a bend in the road I was more worried about if we were going to be able to continue farther into the park. The heavy rain was washing the hillside onto the road and there were large rocks scattered across the road. We got through and back to camp.

The tent was okay and fortunately the rain had slowed quite a bit. We went to the campground center to take showers and do laundry. There were a lot of people there and I found out that the park was closed because of the rocks on the road. I am glad we got in though I was worried that we couldn't leave in the morning. It was funny in a way all of the rain we had at Mesa Verde. Normally they only get about 15 inches a year. I think most of that fell in the three days we were there. Once the laundry was done we went back to our campsite and did some reading. Tomorrow we were headed for Arches National Park in Utah and I wanted an early start.

Long House

A Hand Print on the Alcove Ceiling

Long House From the Other Side

Ned Waits for the Tour to End

Lee's Ferry, Monument Valley, Four Corners

2008-07-24T14:57:00.015-04:00

Ned and Joe By the Mighty Colorado

We broke camp and started for Mesa Verde National Park. Though we had late start I wasn’t that worried about getting a campsite because Mesa Verde has over 400 sites and rarely fills half of them.

As we left the Grand Canyon the landscape quickly changed from the forested plateau of the Kaibab National Forest to the red rocks of the Vermillion Cliffs. Our first stop was Lee’s Ferry, AZ just passed Marble Canyon. In the 1870's the Mormon Church needed a route to Arizona. Lee’s Ferry was the main crossing of the Colorado River in this part of the country until Navajo Bridge was built in 1928. There are still the remains of the cable supports for the ferry and some buildings that housed a gold mining operation.

Now it is where a lot of rafting tours of the Colorado River begin. We walked along the river and then went down to a beach. We waded in a little bit but the water was very cold.

In Page, AZ we had a quick lunch and stopped at the overlook for the Glen Canyon Dam which backs up the Colorado River to form Lake Powell.

Now we headed into the Navajo Indian Reservation and into Monument Valley. Monument Valley with its eroded spires and projections is truly a marvel to see. Even after "more red rocks," as Ned put it, the landscape of Monument Valley is spectacular enough to warrant the drive. After turning onto US 163 North out of Kayenta we were soon in the midst of the monuments evoking visions of the old west formed by the movies of my youth. John Ford filmed some of his classic movies here like Stagecoach and The Searchers.

Leaving Monument Valley we drove passed Mexican Hat and the rock formation that gave it its name and then stopped at Four Corners. Four Corners is the only spot in the US where four states meet. In one spot you can stand in Arizona, Utah, Colorado and New Mexico. It was crowded and all around the marker were temporary shops selling food and hand crafted goods. We were only there 10 minutes but I could have left earlier.

On the drive to Mesa Verde it started to cloud over and then rain. When we arrived in Cortez, NM, about ten miles from the park, it was raining steadily. I thought about getting a hotel but the rain stopped so we went to the park.

The boys picked our campsite. It was down a little hill and almost invisible in the midst of Gamble Oaks. We set up the tent and then purchased our tickets for the cliff dwelling tours. Afterward we went to a campground ranger program on the night sky. Still overcast from the rain it turned into a question and answer session about the park and the cliff dwellings.

Rafters Getting Ready for the Journey Downriver

The Remains of Lee's Fort

The Glen Canyon Dam

The Road to Monument Valley

Monument Valley

The Road West

I'm in Colorado! I'm in New Mexico! No, I'm in Arizona or is it Utah?

DeMotte Campground, AZ to Mesa Verde National Park, CO, 405 miles 7 hrs 48 min

Hanging Out at the North Rim

2008-07-23T11:33:00.005-04:00

Joe, Joe and Ned On the Edge of Cape Final

This morning we got up and after a breakfast of eggs and hot dogs we headed out to Cape Royal. On the way into the park we passed the herd of bison again. A park worker we talked with last night said they don't exist after we told him we saw them yesterday. They looked pretty real.

The drive to Cape Royal is 18 miles out on the Wahalla Plateau. There are a number of pull offs along the way offering different views of the Grand Canyon and side canyons. At the end of the road we walked out to Cape Royal and Angels Window, the only arch in Grand Canyon National Park. On the drive back we stopped and hiked out to Cape Final. The Cape Final Trail is a four mile round trip hike with little elevation change that wanders through the forest to a lookout point. It's a nice trail and not as crowded as Cape Royal.

We then went to the lodge and had lunch in the dining room at a table next to the grand windows with their view over the Grand Canyon. The meal was good and with the view as a bonus it far surpassed the meal at Bright Angel Lodge that we had on the South Rim a few weeks before. After lunch we went to the North Rim campground and took showers and then hung out on the porch of the general store located there. The boys worked on their Summer Bridge books while I did some research and planning for our destinations tomorrow.

We then returned to the lodge to watch the sunset. While we waited we played some Uno. A boy from New Jersey named Cameron was watching us play and started to help Ned. We asked him to join us. The four of us played Uno as the sun set over the canyon. Once the sun had set we went out on the west porch to a sky filled with stars. We took turns looking through a telescope that a park volunteer had set up. He had it focused on Jupiter and we could make out the planet's disk with the cloud bands and four of its moons, Io, Europa, Ganymede, and Callisto.

The North Rim of the Grand Canyon is very different from the South Rim. The crowds are not here. Yes, it can be hard to get a good seat on the porch to watch the sunset but there is never a sense of being packed, pushed or jostled and once you leave the lodge area you are alone. The North Rim is green. Because it is about a 1000 feet higher in elevation it is cooler and wetter. This means there are more trees. Both of these differences makes it pleasant to hike around the canyon rim. I would like to return to the North Rim again some day possibly in late spring or early fall.

Where the Bison Roam

Wildflowers on the Trail

Cape Royal View

Freya Castle

Angels Window

Prickly Pear In Flower

Ned Catches Up on His Reading

End of the Day, End of Our Visit

From Zion to the North Rim

2008-07-22T11:36:00.006-04:00

Ned and Joe Show Off the Sign For the North Rim

Since we slept in the car we were up early. This was good because I was worried about getting a campsite at the Grand Canyon North Rim campground. I had tried to reserve a spot but it was full, drat.

Leaving Zion National Park we stopped to hike the short Canyon Overlook Trail just passed the exit the of the Zion-Mount Carmel Highway Tunnel. The trail is an easy quick mile roundtrip with fenced off drop-offs that ends at a spectacular viewpoint of lower Zion Canyon and Pine Creek Canyon. One of the advantages of being there so early is that we got to watch the sun rise over the canyon and color the landmarks.

After our hike we made a quick stop to see the Checkerboard Mesa. Its horizontal lines were created by sediments were laid down as sand dunes. The vertical grooves come from joints cracking because of the slowly changing pressures on the rock as it was buried and exhumed. Weathering by rainwash and freeze-and-thaw cycles brought the grooves out in relief. Just down the road we made an unexpected stop as a herd of bighorn sheep were in the middle of the road. There were about 12 ewes and their young. Ned spotted a ram on the hillside nearby.

Sunrise Over the West Temple at Zion National Park

Ned and Joe Look Over the Zion's Overlook Trail

Our Last Look at Zion Canyon

Moon Flowers by the Road

A Bighorn Sheep

The Checkboard Mesa

The rest of the drive was more uneventful though a coyote ran across in front of us. We arrived at the North Rim park entrance of Grand Canyon National Park around 10:30 am and found that indeed all of the campsites were taken. We decided to drive to the campground just in case someone had canceled. On the way we passed a herd of buffalo grazing alongside of the road. There were truly no spaces at the campground. We made a quick visit at the Grand Canyon Lodge and then headed back out of the park to find a place to set up camp.

Just north of the park entrance in Kaibab National Forest is the DeMotte campground but dispersed camping is also allowed. A ranger at the visitor center recommended camping near one of the national forest points. We decided to try Timp Point.

The road to Timp Point is a logging road through a ponderosa pine forest and offers at its end a panoramic view of the Grand Canyon. On the way we saw mule deer and wild turkeys. We found a good spot to set up camp but decided against camping there. It took about 45 minutes to get back to the main road and I wanted to spend some time at the lodge and hike some of the trails near there. Also I was not prepared for a lack of toilet facilities. So we headed back and got a campsite at DeMotte campground. We had a quick dinner of hotdogs and then headed back to the Grand Canyon Lodge.

The first Grand Canyon Lodge was built in 1928 and burned down in 1932. A new one was built in 1937 and this time with grand windows overlooking Bright Angel Point. Perched on the edge of the canyon it offers magnificent views from those grand windows and two large porches that are the perfect spot to relax at the end of the day.

Inside the lodge there is a bronze sculpture of Brighty of the Grand Canyon made famous by Marguerite Henry's story in 1953. Brighty, a small burro, was real and lived at Grand Canyon from 1892 until 1922. He was named Bright Angel after the creek that flowed into the Canyon but everyone called him Brighty. Though a wild creature who roamed the canyon at will he was tolerant of children, who would ride on his back for hours. Most of the events and people in the novel were based on facts such as Brighty had helped build the new suspension bridge over the Colorado river at the bottom of the Canyon and was the first to cross it. He also did meet Theodore Roosevelt. Legend has it that a rub on the nose of the sculpture brings good luck. We all rubbed it.

After visiting Brighty we walked out to Bright Angel Point , a quick half mile from the lodge with some great views. When we got back to the lodge we found a seat and wrote postcards as we watched the sun set over the canyon.

Brighty of the Grand Canyon, Rub His Nose for Luck

The West Porch at the Grand Canyon Lodge Comes With Great Views

The Canyon From the West Porch of the Lodge

The View From Bright Angel Point

Storm Brewing to the East

The Grand Canyon Lodge

Sunset Over the Grand Canyon

Zion National Park, UT to Grand Canyon National Park North Rim, AZ, 197 miles 5 hrs 41 min

The Land of Zion Canyon

2008-07-21T18:25:00.023-04:00

Joe and Ned Hiking the Virgin River Through the Narrows

Waking early we drove to St. George, UT to get the car serviced at the Honda Dealer. Afterward we went to IHOP for breakfast, stopped at Target for some supplies and then went to the St. George Dinosaur Discovery Site at Johnson Farm.

The site houses some exceptionally well-preserved dinosaur tracks that were discovered by Dr. Sheldon Johnson when excavating a hillside on his farm. Recognizing the significance of the find he founded a museum and built a building over the site. The museum also contains fossil fish, fossil plants, rare dinosaur remains, invertebrates traces and important sedimentary structures. They have a great paleontologist on site to answer questions making the visit much more interesting and very informative.

Examining Where Dinosaurs Walked

Returning to Zion National Park we stopped at the Nature Center and attended a Junior Ranger program on bats. Afterwards the boys received their Junior Ranger Badges. Then we rode the park shuttle to the end of the canyon. Zion's shuttle system was started to reduce traffic congestion and pollution, noise and resource damage. The only downside of the shuttle is it is hard to see the canyon well from inside but fortunately there are lots of stops.

We took the shuttle to the last stop, Temple of Sinawava. From there we hiked the Riverside Walk along the river. It follows the Virgin River for a mile until it ends at the river. To go farther you have to get wet since the river pretty much fills the canyon. So we took off our shoes and went upstream upstream for a couple of bends before we returned to the shuttle. We dried out enough that when we got to the shuttle stop that we barely made the seats damp.

Next we stopped at Big Bend where a mule deer was nibbling on a tree. This is good stop to see the Great White Throne which rises more than 2400' above the canyon floor. The magnificent white topped monolith is the most famous of Zion's landmarks. The name was given by Frederick Fisher, a Methodist minister, who also named Angels Landing and the Three Patriarchs. Fisher felt that the monolith was magnificent enough to symbolize the throne of God.

The next stop was Weeping Rock a seep spring that has eroded a bowl-shape into the cliff face. Water on the canyon top seeps into the sandstone rock and passes through until it hits an impermeable layer of shale. This creates a year-round spring that nourishes hanging gardens of moss, ferns, grass and wildflowers. These are common all across the Southwest's canyonlands, but this one is notable for being so large. Enough water collects to form a small, tree-lined stream that trickles down the hillside for a short distance before joining the Virgin River. The trail was signed with interesting notes on the plants that we passed.

We stopped at the Zion Lodge and had a quick pizza dinner while watching mule deer grazing on the lawn. We then hiked the Emerald Pools Trails. We were just going to the lower pool but ended up going to go to all three. The Emerald Pools trails have breathtaking scenery along with the pools and waterfalls. A gallery of Zion's landmarks compete for attention from the lofty perch of the middle pools with Red Arch Mountain at center stage. Most people stop at the spur to the upper pool, where the trail becomes more rugged and steep but the upper pool at the end is worth every step. This secluded oasis is framed by colossal cliffs on three sides with a 400 foot waterfall.

After the hike we were pretty beat and it was getting late. We went to the ranger program on hiking safety at the campground and then to bed. We never did have a chance to set up the tent so we slept in the car.

Joe and Ned at the Zion National Park Nature Center

The Riverside Walk to the Narrows

The Next Bend in the Narrows

A Mule Deer Beside the Shuttle Stop

The Great White Throne

Angels Landing From Weeping Rock

Mule Deer Grazing at the Zion Lodge

Red Arch Mountain from the Middle Emerald Pool

A Big Dam to Zion Canyon

2008-07-20T12:53:00.003-04:00

Ned, "Dam, That's Big!" Joe, "I Don't See Anything!"

We were up early today so we could get Pap-Pap to the airport. He was heading home. It was great having him along. The boys were almost as upset as when Mary left us a week ago.

After dropping Pap-Pap off at the airport we were on our own again. We went back to the hotel and finished packing our stuff. I had hoped to get the car serviced but since it was Sunday it would have to wait. I also wanted to visit Hoover Dam before heading to Zion National Park. So after a quick breakfast at Whole Foods we drove to Hoover Dam.

Hoover Dam, wonder of the modern world, was built in 1935 to tame the Colorado River and provide water for irrigation and power for cities. It is 726 ft high and is 1244 ft wide at the top. We parked on the Arizona side of the dam and walked across. I have been to the dam a few times before but I had never taken a tour. We decided to take the Powerplant Tour.

The tour starts with a 10 minute film describing the massive construction effort behind this engineering marvel and how the dam helped change the developing West. Then an elevator takes you 530 ft down through the rock wall of Black Canyon and into a tunnel to the Penstock Viewing Platform. The Penstock is one of four huge 30 ft diameter pipes that transports up to 90,000 gallons of water a second from Lake Mead to the dam's hydroelectric generators. As we stood there we could feel the vibration of the water passing beneath. Another quick elevator ride and we were at a balcony for a view of the 650 ft long Nevada wing of the powerplant and eight of the dam's 17 huge generators.

After the tour we went to the top of the visitor center to get a look at the dam and the progress on the new Hoover Dam Bypass that is under construction. We then walk back along the Lake Mead side and returning to the car headed for Zion National Park.

The Powerplant at the Base of the Dam

The Source of the Power Deep in the Dam

Walking the Dam Tunnels

Hoover Dam from the Visitors Center

The New Dam Bypass Bridge Under Construction

The drive to Zion National Park took us back through Las Vegas so we stopped at In-N-Out for lunch. As we neared Zion the weather started to get stormy and when we arrived it was pouring and late. We checked into the campground and then went to the movie theater right outside the park. The movie playing was Kung Fu Panda which we had already seen but it was good and it was raining. It was still raining when the movie was over so that night we slept in the car.

Las Vegas, NV to Zion National Park, UT, 237 miles 5 hrs 49 min

Devils Postpile, Manzanar and Death Valley

2008-07-19T17:37:00.019-04:00

A Low Point in the Life of Ned and Joe

Friday morning we broke camp and headed for a last visit to the Yosemite valley. We made a quick stop at Bridalveil Fall though unlike the other falls we visited it was low on water. We stopped at the visitor center to stamp our park passport. I dropped into the Ansel Adams Gallery. It has works from local artists in addition to cards and posters of Ansel Adams original photographs. I bought Mary a pair of turquoise and silver earrings. We had lunch and headed out of the valley. On the way we passed two rescue helicopters getting ready to air lift two people out of the park near the base of El Capitain.

Bridalveil Falls

Our Last View of Half Dome and the Yosemite Valley

The plan was to drive down the eastern side of the Sierras stopping at Devils Postpile National Monument, Manzanar National Historic Site, Death Valley National Park and then drive to Las Vegas where Pap-pap was flying home. So we left Yosemite by the Tioga Pass Road a beautiful route that winds through north central Yosemite park topping out at 10,000 feet at Tioga Pass at the park's eastern entrance. We then turned south to Devils Postpile National Monument.

To get to Devils Postpile National Monument you have to have to take a shuttle from the Mammoth Mountain Ski Area. The shuttle was started to ease the amount of traffic entering the Valley. So we hopped on and sat back to let someone else drive.

The main reason Devils Postpile National Monument was created in 1911 was to protect and preserve the Devils Postpile formation. The Park Service's website has a good description of it, "The formation is a rare sight in the geologic world and ranks as one of the world’s finest examples of columnar basalt. Its columns tower 60 feet high and display an unusual symmetry ... The eruption and uniform cooling of basalt lava created an impressive wall of columns. Later a glacial event exposed the columns and polished smooth the top of this formation enhancing the pattern of hexagons that are a result of the mineral composition of the lava."

It was pretty neat. The base of the hill was covered in what looked like broken pieces of K'nex connector pieces. The boys and I did a quick hike to the top of the formation. We were running late when we arrived and the ranger station was closing but we managed to get Junior Ranger books. As we were leaving the boys caught up with a ranger and were able to receive their badges though the ranger seemed a bit put out. We hopped on the shuttle back to Mammoth Mountain. We stopped for dinner in Mammoth Lakes. It was really late when we arrived in Bishop, CA so we got a hotel room for the night.

Joe and Ned On the Top of the Postpile

The Devils Postpile

Ned and Joe Show Off Their Junior Ranger Badges

In the morning we continued south and very soon we reached Manzanar National Historic Site. In 1942, the United States government ordered more than 110,000 men, women, and children of Japanese descent to leave their homes and detained them in remote, military-style camps. Manzanar War Relocation Center was one of ten camps where Japanese American citizens and resident Japanese aliens were interned during World War II.

The Manzanar National Historic Site was established to preserve the stories of the internment of the Japanese Americans during World War II and to serve as a reminder of the fragility of American civil liberties. The visitor center and museum is in a building constructed by internees in 1944, which housed a gymnasium and a stage for plays, graduation ceremonies, and other social functions. It now holds moving exhibits of what life was like in the camp.

The camp covered a square mile and an auto tour describes the buildings that stood there. The most moving point on the tour is the cemetery. Although as many as 80 people were buried in the cemetery, only six remain today. In the cemetery is a white obelisk constructed by internee Ryozo Kado and dedicated in August, 1943. The inscription on the front of the monument translates, "This is the place of consolation for the spirit of all mankind." The inscription on the back says, "Erected by the Manzanar Japanese, August 1943."

Ned Learns How the Children Had to Borrow Toys in the Camp

"...the place of consolation for the spirit of all mankind."

Next, Death Valley National Park. We took California Route 190 into the park, a road that wound down hills to a flat straight road through the valley. We watched the outside temperature on the dash climb until it hit 111°. When we stopped at the visitor center at Furnace Creek the temperature was 126°. After the boys received their Junior Ranger badges we drove down to Badwater Basin. At 282ft below sea level it is the lowest point in the United States. The wind was so hot it felt like someone holding a torch to your face. We didn't stay long.

The most interesting thing to see at Death Valley was people doing anything in that heat. At Stovepipe Wells I noticed a ranger raking the gravel near the road because someone had driven over it. We also saw some people running. Every year there is an Ultramarathon but that was over a few days before. Stragglers?

Leaving Death Valley we made our way to Las Vegas. After checking into a hotel we went out eat and then cruised the Las Vegas Strip. We oohed and aahed over all of the lights. We didn't stay out to late. Pap-Pap's flight was leaving at 6:00 am so we had to be up early to get him to the airport.

The Road to Death Valley

The Boys Try to Hide From the Heat of the Wind at Badwater Basin

Las Vegas is also Home to New York, Paris and Venice

The Lights of Las Vegas

Yosemite National Park, CA to Bishop, CA, 166 miles 6 hrs 44 min

Bishop, CA to Las Vegas, NV, 313 miles 5 hrs 34 min

A Day in Yosemite National Park

2008-07-17T11:20:00.014-04:00

In planning for Yosemite I had looked at all of the day hikes available. Most of the ones that we were interested in unfortunately required a large change in elevation. The boys were keen on hiking to the top of Half Dome but that is a grueling 16 mile round trip with a 4600 foot elevation change, not something I thought I would be able to do. Even the 2,200 foot climb to the top of Yosemite Falls was crossed off the list. Taking advantage of having Pap-Pap with us we decided on hiking the 8.5 miles from Glacier Point to the valley floor via the Panorama Trail and the Mist Trail. This hike would take us by three waterfalls and had a moderate 700 foot rise in the middle. So early in the morning we set off.

Pap-Pap dropped us off at the trailhead to the Panorama Trail and drove down to the valley to meet us later. The views from nearly every point along the Panorama Trail, are to die for. The hardest part of hiking the trail was pulling myself away from taking in the views. After leaving Glacier Point, we hiked into the Illilouette Canyon and the over the Illilouette Creek and the nearby waterfall. Because of good snowfall over the winter the falls were flush with
water. We paused on the bridge over the creek for a snack.

The trail continues on the other side of the creek uphill along the Panorama Cliff. It was a bit slow and Ned started to complain about his feet hurting but the effort was worth it for the view from the high point on the trail. Every part of the Panorama Trail offers a different spectacular view of Yosemite. Soon we started catching glimpses of Nevada Fall and then we were there. We had lunch on the rocks near the fall. After lunch we started down the Mist Trail to the valley.

This trail is mostly a series of granite steps set along the course of the Merced River as it drops into the valley. The going was hard and as we got closer to the valley floor there were more people and the temperature went up. When we reached the bottom I was a bit dehydrated and very calf and shin sore from the stairs but we made it and happily met up with Pap-Pap.

We then went to Housekeeping Camp to take showers and do some laundry. While waiting for our laundry we went and had a pizza dinner at nearby Curry Village. On our way out of the valley we stopped at the visitor center and the boys received their junior ranger badges. Before going back to camp we made a last visit to Glacier Point to watch the sun set and the moon rise.

Half Dome, Liberty Cap, Nevada Fall and Vernal Fall from the Panorama Trail

Ned and Joe Cross Illilouette Creek

The Yosemite Valley from the Panorama Cliffs

A Glimpse of Nevada Fall

The 600 ft Drop of Nevada Fall

A Relief Map of the Yosemite Valley at the Visitor Center

El Capitain Looms Over the Valley Floor

Sunset From Tunnel View

A Bit of Kings Canyon and Yosemite

2008-07-16T22:12:00.005-04:00

Joe, Ned, and Joe with Half Dome and Nevada Fall as a Backdrop

We left Sequoia National Park a little after 6:00 am to get to Yosemite as early as possible. I had tried to make reservations for a campsite in Yosemite Valley but they were completely booked. After some research I found that there is a first come first served campground south of the valley on the road to Glacier Point. That was our goal.

On the way out of the park we made a last stop in the Kings Canyon National Park section at Grants Grove to see the General Grant tree. This giant sequoia and its neighbors were initially protected in the 4 square-mile General Grant National Park created in 1890. In 1940 it absorbed into Kings Canyon National Park.

The General Grant tree is the third largest tree in the world and is the Nation's Christmas Tree and our only living national shrine, commemorating those Americans who have lost their lives in war. On the trail is the Fallen Monarch, the 124 foot long trunk of a tree that toppled many centuries ago and is now hollow due to a combination of fire damage and natural decay. A path runs through the whole length of the trunk. It was once used to stable the horses of a cavalry unit stationed there near the turn of the 19th century. This was really the only part of Kings Canyon National Park we got to see. Someday we will have to return and visit the canyon.

Joe and Ned Enter the Fallen Monarch

Ned and Joe With General Grant

After a short drive we arrived at Yosemite's southern entrance a little after 11:00 am and found out that Bridalveil Creek campground, where we were hoping camp, had spaces available. By noon we had the tent set up and we were ready to go exploring.

Yosemite National Park is a big park though most visitors only visit the Yosemite Valley. Bridalveil Creek, is located in the mountains that make up the southern wall of the Yosemite valley. It is also on the road to Glacier Point above Yosemite Valley which offers superb views including Yosemite Falls, Half Dome, Vernal Falls, and Nevada Falls. We started our exploration of Yosemite by heading there.

I have seen many pictures of the beauty of Yosemite especially those of Ansel Adams but to see it in person surpassed any picture. To see the shape of Half Dome jutting into the sky and the waterfalls with their constant low rumble audible to us on Glacier Point was indescribable. It was hard not to linger and marvel over the works of nature that were laid out before us.

Ned and Joe Rest After Clambering on Big Rocks

Pap-Pap Happy to be in Yosemite

Vernal and Nevada Falls

We left Glacier Point and went to hike an easy 2.2 mile round trip trail to the top of Sentinel Dome. Like Half Dome, Sentinel Dome is a granite dome. It is on the south wall of the Yosemite Valley and offers a full view of the valley. From the top we could see from El Capitain to Half Dome with Yosemite falls in the center. Joe got to climb Sentinel Dome twice because he had left his water bottle at the top.

After the hike we went back to camp for a dinner of hot dogs over the campfire and then returned to Glacier Point for a ranger program on the geology of Yosemite. We stayed and watched the sun set over the Yosemite Valley coloring the mountains followed by a nearly full moon rise over the Sierras. As we headed back to the car we made use of a mounted telescope to view the moons of Jupiter.

Sentinel Dome

Yosemite Falls from Sentinel Dome

El Capitain in the Background

Moonrise Over the Sierras

The Setting Sun Colors Half Dome

Sequoia National Park, CA to Yosemite National Park, CA, 164 miles 4 hrs 59 min

A Giant Rock, Giant Trees, and A Great Lookout

2008-07-15T14:10:00.014-04:00

Joe, Pap-Pap and Ned Atop Moro Rock

Monday morning we woke up late. I had been using the alarm on my phone and found that the battery was dead and would not charge. Getting everyone up we checked out of the hotel and found a phone store. They didn't have a replacement battery but called around and managed to find one at another store. With all of that we still got to the airport in time to pick up my dad. We actually had to wait a bit since his bags were delayed getting off the plane. Once loaded up we turned north and headed for Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks.

The drive up through the Central Valley was uneventful. We stopped at In-N-Out Burger for lunch making a new fan in Pap-Pap. Joe had his second burger with cheese this time. Before long we were climbing into the mountains.

As the road twisted and turned its way into the Sierras we caught glimpses of Moro Rock and then the trees. Giant Sequoias are...giant. We found ourselves hanging out of the windows gazing up in awe at impossibly tall trees. It began to rain as we made our way to the campground and we set up the tent in the rain. Joe figured that it was the fastest we ever made camp. Soon after the tent was up the rain ended and a rainbow appeared through the trees.

One thing we had been warned about were the bears in the park. All food and any perfumed items (shampoo, soap, toothpaste, etc.) must be kept in a bear box. The bear will break into cars trying to get what they think is food. That night there were at least two bears incursions into the campground. They didn't get near our site and were chased off by campers on the edge of the campground.

Moro Rock as We Drove Into the Park

Trees to Gape At in Wonder

A Rainbow After the Rain

This morning we headed out to see the park. First we went to Crescent Meadow, a lovely, grassy, open area, that John Muir called, "the gem of the Sierra." We hiked around the meadow and passed Tharp's Log, a fallen fire-hollowed Sequoia log, in which Hale Tharp built a summer cabin in 1860. We stopped at the Auto Log which you used to be able to drive your car on and the Tunnel Log which we drove under. We then headed to the top of Moro Rock for a ranger program on climate in the park.

Moro Rock is a granite dome and has a 1/4 mile trail of nearly 400 steps to the top. It would offer a great view of the Great Western Divide except that because of air pollution you cannot see very far. The ranger did say that because of the rain it was the best view in a month.

Crescent Meadow "the Gem of the Sierra"

A Bee Seeks the Nectar of the Leopard Lily

Pap-Pap Checks Out Tharp's Log

The Auto Log

Dancing on a Log Over the Car

The Stairs to the Top of Moro Rock

The Ned and Joe Lead the Way Down from Moro Rock

After descending Moro Rock we went to the Giant Forest. Named by John Muir in 1875 it is the park's most famous attraction. Trails thread through the trees so you can can stop and marvel at them as John Muir did, "Giants grouped in pure temple groves, or arranged in colonnades along the sides of meadows." The northern part of the Giant Forest is home to the General Sherman Tree, the largest tree in the world. It is 275 ft tall and has a 103 ft circumference at its base and it is still growing. To use Ned's words, "that tree is huge!" It started to rain on our hike through the forest and we stopped at the Giant Forest Museum to wait out the rain. Afterward we to the Lodgepole Visitor Center where the boys received Junior Ranger badges (their sixth this trip!) and had dinner.

The Giant Forest

Look at Us in a Tree!

The General Sherman Tree

The Sentinel Towers Over the Giant Forest Museum

Since it was still a bit early we drove into the Sequoia National Forest to visit the Buck Rock Lookout. It sits atop a granite dome and offers a breathtaking view of the high mountain peaks of the Sierra Nevada Mountains. To reach the top you have to climb a series of stairs suspended from the side of the rock. The building was constructed in 1923 and is historically significant as a representation of the earliest 4-A style live-in lookouts of which there are only three in existence in the world today.

We had a nice conversation with the fire watcher about her job and the hummingbirds that regularly visit her. She lives there five days of the week. It was now pretty late so we headed back to our tent. Tomorrow we are heading for Yosemite!

The Buck Rock Lookout

A Steep Flight of Stairs

Los Angeles, CA to Sequoia National Park, CA, 253 miles 5 hrs 50 min

A Lazy Day in LA

2008-07-13T16:53:00.001-04:00

Joe and Ned Wade Into the Blue Pacific

This morning we dropped Mary off at the airport. We wouldn't see her again for at least three weeks so it was sad to see her go. It was great having her along and we wished she could have continued with us. We wouldn't be on our own for long though. My dad was joining us on Monday for the next week to Sequoia and Yosemite National Parks.

Since we were in town for the rest of the day we had time to head to the beach and actually go into the Pacific Ocean. The water was cold. After a short walk we dried off our toes and went to the Getty Center. Located high on a hill in Los Angeles the Getty Center, designed by architect Richard Meier and opened in 1997, houses a number of Getty institutions including the J. Paul Getty Museum. You park at the base of the hill and take a tram to the site. We didn't really get to see much of the art inside the buildings. On arriving we joined a garden tour and spent the next hour and a half touring the grounds and looking at the different gardens. Then we spent time in the sculpture garden participating in the family program creating our own Calder inspired pieces of art.

After the museum we stopped at the La Brea Bakery for a sweet treat and returned to the hotel. The boys swam in the pool for a couple of hours and we went to In-N-Out Burger for dinner. Joe was upset because he doesn't eat burgers. But I convinced him to try one with just ketchup. Soon it was gone and he was planning his next one with cheese. In-N-Out makes some great burgers.

That's a Big Ocean

The Getty Center

The Bouganvilla Trellises In the Central Garden

We Reach the End of Route 66

2008-07-12T23:33:00.004-04:00

Mary Welcomes Us to the Gamble House

Leaving Barstow we made for Pasadena, CA. On the way we followed Route 66 as much as we could through San Bernardino and Rialto which is the home of the tee pees of another Wig Wam Motel. We had a 2:00 pm tour of the Gamble House so we wanted to eat somewhere nearby. We were running late and hungry so we hopped onto the highway to get to Pasadena to eat lunch.

We ate lunch at Pie 'n Burger a classic Pasadena eatery which has been around since 1963. The place was pretty crowed but we got lucky and soon had a table. They have great burgers but the their pies and cakes are even better especially the strawberry cake. It was pink deliciousness.

We finished lunch in time to make our way across town to the Gamble House. The Gamble House is the epitome of Californian Craftsman, an American Arts and Crafts style architecture. The house and furnishings were designed by Charles and Henry Greene in 1908 for David and Mary Gamble of the Procter and Gamble Company. The house, a National Historic Landmark, is owned by the City of Pasadena and operated by the University of Southern California and is open for public tours. It is a beautiful home.

The Greenes intimately worked with the Gambles creating a home that reflected their personalities and tastes. They used elements from favorite pieces of art and the family crest to set themes for different rooms. The woodwork is simple and strong. No detail was overlooked. Even the garage which is now the bookstore was matched to the house.

The Front of the Gamble House from the Street

The Hall Toward the Front Door

The Living Room and Fireplace Inglenook

The Dining Room

The Rear of the Home

Another View of the Front

Leaving Pasadena we continued west on Route 66 toward the Pacific. Before we arrived in Santa Monica we stopped at the La Brea Tar Pits part of the Page Museum. The tar pits are asphalt seeps that for the past 40,000 years have been entrapping animals. Mammoths, sabertooth cats, dire wolves and many birds are just some of the animal skeletons found in the excavation of the pits. It was fascinating to see all of the different fossils on display. You can also view the laboratory where the remains are cleaned, examined and cataloged.

Mary Views a Wall of Dire Wolf Skulls

Trapped for Thousands of Years an Ancient Beast Still Struggles in the Asphalt Seep

As we left the tar pits we drove down Wilshire and onto Santa Monica Blvd. Soon we began to catch glimpses of the ocean and we knew that the Route 66 part of our adventure was nearing an end. We drove by the actual end of Route 66, the unassuming intersection at Olympic and Lincoln Blvds. The "Unofficial" end, the Will Rogers Hwy Marker, in Palisades Park at the intersection of Santa Monica Blvd and Ocean is much more satisfying.

As we walked along the palm lined bluffs looking out over the Pacific Ocean we reflected on the past few weeks. We covered a lot of the country and had some good times. We were also a bit sad since Mary was to leave us in the morning.

It was getting late so returned to the car and drove to our hotel in the San Fernando Valley. We had dinner at the Bear Pit BBQ which was just down the street from our hotel. It has great neon sign. As the sun went down over LA and the neon lit up we toasted our completion of Route 66 with barbecued lamb and pork.

Joe, Ned and an Amazed Joe at the Route's End

Joe and Ned Pose at the End of Our Route 66 Journey

The Bear Pit's Sign

Barstow, CA to Mission Hills, CA, 181 miles 5 hrs 13 min

Western Arizona on Route 66 and Into California

2008-07-11T00:17:00.015-04:00

Our Last Stop at the Grand Canyon

Breaking camp we made our last farewells to the Grand Canyon as we drove out of the park to Williams, AZ and Route 66. In Williams we had a hearty breakfast of biscuits and gravy and pancakes at Old Smokey’s Restaurant and Pancake House.

After breakfast our next stop was Seligman, AZ, the birthplace of the Historic Route 66 Association of Arizona and home of association founder Angel Delgadillo. Instead of watching his town crumble away like others bypassed by the interstate, he brought attention to the plight of Route 66.

Angel Delgadillo’s former barbershop is now the Route 66 Visitor Center & Gift Shop and Angel still greets everyone at the door. The shop is a Mecca for Route 66 enthusiasts from all over the world and the spirit of the Mother Road can be found in Angel's eyes as he tells the history of Route 66. He was really taken by Joe and Ned and took them to see the barbershop chair that his father bought eighty years ago. It was a wonderful moment meeting him.

We then walked a block down the road to the Snow Cap Drive-In. Angel’s brother Juan started this food spot in 1946. His family now runs the store and continues the tradition of making it the "funniest food spot on Route 66." They like to play jokes and tricks on the customers. We were taken in by the false doorknob on the door. When Joe asked for a small ice cream cone he received the very bottom of a cone with a dollop of ice cream. If you ask for mustard or ketchup you get a squirt. In case you’re wondering the ice cream is worth the stop.

Seligman is also the eastern gateway to a golden stretch of about 140 uninterrupted miles of pristine Route 66. Finishing up at the Snow Cap we pointed the car west.

The Route 66 Visitor Center & Gift Shop

Ned and Joe are Treated to Seat in Angel Delgadillo's Barber Chair

Ned and Mary at the Snow Cap Drive-In

Joe Tries to Give the Bunny Ears

Mary at the Snow Cap

We made a brief stop at Grand Canyon Caverns to see the dinosaurs out front but did not go on the cave tour. We had fun reading the Burma Shave signs along the road. We also stopped at the Hackberry General Store. It is a mix of gift shop and unintentional museum including rusty old cars, vintage gas pumps and a bright red ’56 Corvette. If you ever stop check out the men’s room.

Soon we were in Kingman, AZ where another quick stop was made to see a majestic Santa Fe steam locomotive #3759 in Locomotive Park. The boys had great time playing on the locomotive and caboose.

After Kingman the road heads into the drainage of the Sacramento Wash and is pretty much a straight line to the Black Mountains. The first sign of life is Cool Springs a 1926 store and camp that until recently was nothing more than rubble. In 2004 Ned Leuchtner restored the place using old photos.

Just passed Cool Springs the road gets really hairy. It twists and turns with hairpin turns all the way to the top of Sitgreaves Pass. Along the way we stopped to climb the 30 rock steps to Shaffer's Fish Bowl Springs, a man-made basin that collects water from a seep. It is also a great spot to photograph the road below.

On the way down we saw the remains of a couple of cars that didn't make the turns. Before we knew it we were in Oatman, AZ and in the middle of a shootout. Oatman is a town that is still in the wild west. It has wooden sidewalks and wild burros that wander about town, even in the stores.

After Oatman it wasn't long until we crossed the border into California. It was pretty late and we wanted to get as close to Los Angeles as we could so after driving a bit of Route 66 through the Mojave Desert we hopped on the interstate to Bartstow, CA.

We ate dinner at the Bun Boy restaurant. It was opened in 1926 on Route 66. When we walked in we were the only customers. The service was great and the food was good. When we left some other travellers were headed in but it was strange. We checked into a motel for the night with plans to head out early the following morning.

A Dinosaur in Front of Grand Canyon Caverns

Ned and Joe Show Off Their New Ride

They Didn't Take Heed of the Signs

Ned and Joe With New Friends by the #3759 at Locomotive Park in Kingman

Cool Springs

The Road Up Sitgreaves Pass

A Car That Didn't Make It

A Bank Robber's End in Oatman, AZ

A Wild Burro of Oatman

Joe and Ned Walk Into the Sunset

Grand Canyon National Park, AZ to Barstow, CA, 426 miles 8 hrs 52 min

The Grand Canyon

2008-07-10T21:29:00.013-04:00

Ned, Mary and Joe Pose for the Camera

Today was spent exploring the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. The South Rim is the most visited part of the Grand Canyon and also the most developed. We started the morning by driving to the Visitor Center and getting Junior Ranger books for the boys. Since one of the requirements was a ranger led program we stuck around and attended a program on the geology of the Grand Canyon and learned about how this natural wonder was formed. After the program and some trash collecting the boys were awarded their Junior Ranger badges.

An activity we read about was a digital photography workshop called "Canon Photography in the Parks" sponsored by Canon. You sign up for a session and they lend you a digital camera, digital SLRs for adults and point and shoots for the kids. They take you on a small hike along the canyon rim with a professional photographer to give you tips on how to adjust camera settings, use natural light and frame your shots. We signed up and spent the next two hours taking pictures. It was a lot of fun. Between the four of us we took 370 pictures. We also learned a lot about taking better pictures. When the course was over we reluctantly turned in our cameras.

Pine Cones

Ned Fills the Canyon

Canyon View

Apache Plume

Kaibab Trial

Mary Catches Photographers in Action

Bird in Tree

Mary

Prickly Pear in Bloom

We then hiked along the Rim Trail to the Bright Angel lodge. The Rim Trail is a nice hike but very crowded. Most of the visitors to park are dropped off here from tour busses. As we made our way along the rim we stopped at Yavapai Point and Observation Center which has exhibits on the geology of the Grand Canyon. We dropped in at the train depot to see the Grand Canyon Railway train from Williams, AZ and at El Tovar, a beautiful hotel on the rim.

We had a late lunch at Bright Angel lodge which was not very good. I walked down to the trailhead of the Bright Angel Trail and watched the hikers returning from the canyon. They were all glad to be at the top. I asked one woman if she had fun. She paused and looked back at the canyon and turned to me and said, "If I knew you better I'd throw you over the edge."

We then hopped on the park shuttle back to where the car was parked and drove back to Desert View to watch the sunset. We said goodnight to the canyon and went to sleep for tomorrow we are returning to Route 66.

The Bright Angel Trail

The Hopi House

Looking North to Bright Angel Canyon

The Desert View Watchtower from Navajo Point

Mary

Sunset at the Watchtower

Sunset Over the Grand Canyon

From Wigwams to the Grand Canyon

2008-07-09T20:06:00.008-04:00

Ned and Joe Show Off Our Camp at the Grand Canyon

After a good nights sleep in our wigwam we turned left onto Route 66 towards Flagstaff, AZ. On the way out of Holbrook we passed the "World's Largest Petrified Tree" at the Geronimo Trading Post. Just outside of Joseph City we stopped at the Jackrabbit Trading Post. There used to be billboards all along Route 66 counting down the mileage to the Jackrabbit. It was closed because of the hour but the boys got to sit on the giant jackrabbit out front.

We made a quick stop in Winslow, AZ to stand at the famous corner and take a look at La Posada Hotel. The corner was under construction so we only caught a passing glance but La Posada was open. La Posada Hotel is an ornate former Harvey House designed by Mary Elizabeth Jane Colter and built in 1928. It was beautifully restored by the current owner in 1997. It would be a great place to spend a few nights.

Outside of Winslow is Meteor Crater. I have wanted to see Meteor Crater since I was a kid. I used to have a set of flashcards that featured Meteor Crater on one of them. The crater is the best preserved meteor crater on earth and is just under mile wide and 570 feet deep. They also have nice museum with exhibits on other meteor impact sites and meteorites pieces. The boys' favorite was a computer program to determine what would happen to the Earth if different sized meteors, asteroids, or comets hit the earth. I think to most people it is a big hole in the ground but I am glad I had the chance to stop.

We stopped in Flagstaff for a tasty breakfast at La Bellavia and walked around town a bit. Here we left Route 66 and head north to the Grand Canyon. We stopped at Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument on the way. Sunset Crater is an extinct cinder cone volcano that last erupted sometime between 1040 and 1100. The eruption affected the lives of local people and forever changed the landscape and ecology of the area. The lava flows and cinders still look as fresh and rugged as the day they formed. We did a ranger program on the lava field and the boys received Junior Ranger badges.

We made no more stops until we reached Grand Canyon National Park. I was worried because I knew the main campground at Grand Canyon Village was full but we were able to get a space a the Desert View Campground. After setting up camp we walked over to the Desert View Watchtower, a Mary Coutler designed building which beautifully blends with the landscape. We watched the sunset and then returned to camp and made smores over our campfire. That night as we lay down in the tent we were serenaded by coyotes' howls.

Ready to Leave Our Wigwam

The Last Jackrabbit Billboard Tells Us We Made It

Route 66 Is Well Marked in Arizona

Joe, Ned, and Mary at the Entrance to La Posada

The Road to Meteor Crater

Joe, Mary and Ned on the Edge of Meteor Crater

Sunset Crater

Our First View of the Grand Canyon

The Colorado River

The Moon Over the Watchtower

Holbrook, AZ to Grand Canyon National Park Desert View, AZ, 203 miles 4 hrs

Crests, Really Dead Trees and Wigwams

2008-07-08T01:25:00.014-04:00

We're Traveling Route 66 in Style

Uncle Neal came by and saw us off from Santa Fe. It was great to see him and we were sorry to go. On leaving Santa Fe we strayed from Route 66 since Mary and I had done the section from Santa Fe to Albuquerque some years ago. Instead we took the Turquoise Trail, a National Scenic Byway. It winds through back roads and small towns between Santa Fe and Albuquerque. Along the way is the drive to Sandia Crest at 10,678 feet. The road to the crest got most of us a bit carsick but the view was great.

We soon reached Albuquerque where did some shopping and stopped for a late breakfast at the lunch counter at Duran's Central Pharmacy. They serve a great meal with tortillas made to order and it is on Route 66.

Now we were really back on the road and headed for Arizona. Before crossing the border we made a quick stop to acknowledge crossing the Continental Divide.

Albuquerque From Sandia Crest

The Open Road Beckons

The Continental Divide Gift Shop

Our first stop in Arizona after the welcome center was Petrified Forest National Park. Petrified Forest National Park contains one of the largest concentrations of petrified wood in the world along with views of the multi-hued badlands of the Painted Desert, historic structures, archaeological sites, and 225 million year old fossils. There is also a nod to Route 66 which used to run through the park. We did the park road tour starting from the north and exiting from the south. Along the way we saw the Painted Desert Inn, petroglyphs at Newspaper Rock, the Giant Logs outside the Rainbow Forest Museum. Some of the logs seemed as if the trees had just fallen. Joe and Ned received their Junior Ranger badges.

The Painted Desert

Joe and Ned Take the Junior Ranger Oath

A Petrified Log

Mary Checks out One the Trees

Joe and Ned With "Old Faithful"

A Petrified Tree as Balance Beam

A Friendly Lizard

Detail of a Log's End

It was late in the day when we left Petrified Forest National Park and we were hungry and tired. Originally I planned on staying in Holbrook right down the road but then thought we should get closer to the Grand Canyon since we didn't have a place to camp there. I was in a quandary - if pushed on we would also miss Meteor Crater which I really wanted to see.

We stopped in Holbrook, AZ and had dinner at Joe & Aggie's Cafe another Route 66 classic restaurant which promptly solved our hunger problem very well. Now, where to stay the night? Holbrook is home to the Wigwam Motel one of a original seven "Wigwam Villages" from Florida to California. When we stopped to take a picture the boys asked if we could stay. They are usually booked way in advanced but I stopped and asked anyway. After checking a few things the clerk decided there was an availability, one with double beds. We got it.

Before turning in for the night we drove through town to look at other neon lights and stopped by the courthouse where Navaho dancers were finishing up a exhibit of their dances. We returned to our teepee and fell asleep.

Joe & Aggies Cafe

The Wigwam Motel From Across the Street

Joe and Ned Show Off a Wigwam Bed

Standing at the Entrance to Our Wigwam

Nighttime at the Wigwam Motel

Santa Fe, NM to Holbrook, AZ, 353 miles 9 hrs 7 min

Hanging Out in Santa Fe

2008-07-07T01:20:00.008-04:00

Ned and Joe With Their Uncle Neal

One thing we found out about Santa Fe is that a lot of places are closed on Mondays. For example I was hoping, dreaming, of going to Bobcat Bites for a dinner of grilled green chile cheeseburgers but they are closed on Mondays. Neal was arranging a horseback riding trip but when we had a firm date we found that they are closed on Mondays. So we spent a relaxed Monday hanging out.

We started off the morning with breakfast at Tia Sophias and then walked around the plaza and up to the Cathedral Basilica of St Francis of Assisi. There was a service inside so we walked the labyrinth out front and headed down the street to the Loretto Chapel home of the "miraculous staircase."

Inside the Gothic structure is the staircase referred to as miraculous, inexplicable, marvelous and is sometimes called St. Joseph’s Staircase. The stairway confounds architects, engineers and master craftsmen. It makes over two complete 360-degree turns, stands 20’ tall and has no center support. It rests solely on its base and against the choir loft. The risers of the 33 steps are all of the same height. Made of an apparently extinct wood species, it was constructed with only square wooden pegs without glue or nails.

Walking back to the hotel we stopped at the New Mexico capitol building also known as the roundhouse. New Mexico's legislature only meets for 30 or 60 days each year so it was quiet as legislative activity goes. Artwise it is a great place to see the work of artists from all over New Mexico. There was a quilt exhibit and the Governor's Gallery had a great display.

Finished we returned to the hotel. The boys went to the pool and that evening we went out to eat with Neal at Tomisita's for great New Mexican food.

Ned, Joe and Joe Walk the Labyrinth

The Cathedral Basilica of St Francis of Assisi

The Miraculous Staircase of the Loretto Chapel

Joe and Ned in Front the San Miquel Chapel, the Oldest Church Structure on the United States

Ned Admires the Buffalo Head Sculpture by Holly Hughes

New Mexico's Jémez Mountains

2008-07-06T12:40:00.005-04:00

Joe and Ned on the Trail

We awoke excited today because it was the day we would join up with Mary. I think we set a record breaking camp which was good because we had a long drive through the mountains.

The drive was a beautiful one. As we drove through the mountains and down into valleys the view would change from tall pines to high desert. We crossed over a dam and looked out over the Abiquiu Resevoir. The road would go from paved to gravel and one part twisted its way down and back up a valley with hairpin turns.

We made two stops on the way to Santa Fe. Our first was at the East Fork of the Jémez River. We hiked up this beautiful valley for a mile along the river. It is a very popular spot for rock climbers and they were out climbing the cliff faces near the trailhead. If time had allowed we could have continued on to Jémez Falls. We were running a little late because of the twisting road and construction but still we had one more stop.

Bandelier National Monument covers about 34,000 acres though most visitors only see a very small portion of that. The main attraction is in Frijoles Canyon where there are the remains of cliff face dwellings. After getting Junior Ranger books for the boys we set out on the Long House Loop trail.

This takes you past the foundations of a large circular pueblo and then along the cliff face where you can see the places where homes once stood. There are petroglyphs scratched into the cliff face and a few ladders to climb into a hollowed out room. When we returned to the visitors center there was a group of dancers from the Cochiti Pueblo demonstrating some of the different dances they perform at rituals. The Cochiti are the ancestors of the people that originally inhabited Frijoles Canyon. After watching the dancing the boys successfully completed their Junior Ranger badges and we left for Santa Fe.

Neal, Mary’s brother, had booked us into the Hotel Santa Fe since their house is a bit small and partially under construction. We got to the hotel and soon Mary and Neal showed up and we had a happy reunion. We walked into town and stopped at the Georgia O’Keefe Museum. They had an exhibit on her and Ansel Adams. Hungry, we continued our walk into town and had a fantastic dinner at the Coyote Café Cantina. Returning to the hotel Mary and the boys went down to the pool and then we all went to bed.

Looking North Through the Jémez Mountains

Joe's Ansel Adam Picture

The East Fork of the Jémez River

Joe Leads the Way at Bandelier National Monument

Ned Climbs a Ladder to Investigate an Ancient Room

The Frijoles Canyon With the Long House

Joe Waits for Ned to Ascend the Ladder

A Member of the Cochiti Pueblo Does the Corn Dance

Carson National Forest, NM to Santa Fe, NM, 206 miles 5 hrs 47 min

To New Mexico's Mountains

2008-07-05T00:48:00.010-04:00

Ned and Joe Watch the Divers at the Blue Hole of Santa Rosa

Even though we were an easy drive from Santa Fe we were a day early. Mary and her brother Neal were not going to be in Santa Fe until Sunday afternoon. Prior to 1937 Route 66 went from Santa Rosa to Santa Fe it was then rerouted along the current path along I-40 straight to Albuquerque. Looking at the map I decided to head to the mountains northwest of Taos, NM in the Carson National Forest.

As we left Santa Rosa we made a quick stop at the Blue Hole, a natural, bell shaped pool 80 feet deep with clarity to the bottom and a constant water temperature of 62 degrees. It is popular with scuba divers and while there we watched some. There were also some kids jumping off the rocks.

We entered Las Vegas, NM around 10:00 am and found the plaza decked out for a Fourth of July fiesta. We walked about the plaza and watched the Fourth of July parade. After leaving Las Vegas we stopped at Pecos National Historical Park.

Pecos National Historical Park preserves the remains of the Pecos Pueblo and a Spanish mission church from the 1600’s. The Pueblo was once one of the largest in New Mexico but after the Pueblo Revolt of 1680 began to lose population and importance. Now it and the Spanish church are ruins. They do have two kivas, underground Puebloan ceremonial and social spaces, that the boys explored.

A Real Live Hot Wheels Car

My Favorite Part of the Parade

The Plaza Hotel in Las Vegas, NM

Joe Descends Into a Kiva at Pecos National Historical Park

The Remains of the Spanish Church

The Cholla In Bloom

Since we hadn’t eaten yet we quickly made our way to Santa Fe and had a filling late breakfast at the Plaza Café. Afterward we walked a little about the plaza then got back on the road Taos, NM.

We took the High Road to Taos, climbing into the mountains northeast of Santa Fe. Along the way we stopped at El Sanctuario de Chimayo, the Lourdes of America. The Sanctuario de Chimayo is a holy site where a small room off the church contains a hole in the floor where you can scoop up the holy dirt. When applied to an afflicted spot on your body you can be healed. I rubbed some on my bad shoulder.

We arrived in Taos pretty late and I was worried about finding a campsite for the night. After checking a National Forest map I found out that we could camp almost anywhere in the forest. I had hoped on seeing the Kit Carson Museum but it was closed. We made a quick stop at a grocery store and kept going.

On the way out of Taos before getting into the Jémez mountains you cross the Rio Grande. As you approach the river it looks like a large plain and then you see a bridge ahead. The bridge crosses the gorge about 800 feet over the river. We walked out onto the bridge and watched the river flow far below. Continuing on we passed an interesting development called Earthship Biotecture whose buildings looked like something out of Star Wars.

After a driving high into the mountains we found a campground and a site. It was very late so we quickly set up the tent and since it was raining off and on we just went to bed. I awoke in the middle of the night and noticed the clouds had cleared. The stars shown brilliantly. Without any ambient light the Milky Way was clear and I felt I could reach out and grab it.

El Sanctuario de Chimayo

The Plaza at Taos

Joe and Ned Sit for a Spell in Taos

The Rio Grande Gorge

Santa Rosa, NM to Carson National Forest, NM, 266 miles 6 hrs 45 min

Out of Oklahoma Across Texas and Into New Mexico

2008-07-04T00:18:00.016-04:00

Joe and Ned Ready to Tour the Museum

After breaking camp we started for Clinton, OK the home of the Oklahoma Route 66 Museum. Because it was the Fourth of July I wasn't sure how many places would be open. This one wasn't so we continued on down Route 66 to our next stop, Elk City, OK, and the National Route 66 Museum part of the Old Town Museum complex.

The museum was easy to find with a giant Route 66 shield as its sign and it was open. We spent about an hour visiting the displays on Route 66 and the history of Elk City. They had a caboose parked on the site that was open to walk through and climb up to the observation section.

Joe Takes the Wheel Along Route 66

Joe and Ned Really Liked the Caboose

Leaving Elk City we were soon out of Oklahoma and crossing into Texas. Texas, the largest of the states Route 66 passes through, has the second shortest alignment of the Mother Road. Even so there are still many interesting sites to see.

Our first stop in Texas was in Shamrock, TX to see the U Drop Inn. An Art Deco masterpiece built in 1936 it has been recently restored and houses the Chamber of Commerce. It is a beautiful building. It was closed but there was a group having a private party and they invited us in to look at the inside. It was easy to imagine it in its heyday.

Next was McClean, TX and the Devil's Rope/Old Route 66 Museum. Two museums for the price of - Free! A long while back I had heard of this museum and put on my list of places to visit. Luckily it was open. The woman at the counter almost didn't come in because yesterday there were no visitors. I am glad she chose to open up.

It is a huge museum considering its subject, barbed wire. I never would have guessed there was so many different types of barbed wire. Not only did they have barbed wire but also the mauls to set fence posts, machines to put up fencing and manufacture barbed wire and artistic creations made of barbed wire (the hat pictured was my favorite.) Their Old Route 66 Museum was interesting for some of the artifacts they had. A large cobra from the Regal Reptile Ranch and the original steer that stood on the roof of the Big Texan.

Just down the road from the museum was a recently restored Phillips 66 gas station, the first one in Texas. After leaving McLean we drove through Groom, TX which is home to two wonders of the road. The famous "Leaning Tower of Groom" and the "Largest Cross in the Western Hemisphere." We only managed to get a picture of the tower.

Welcome to Texas

The U Drop Inn in Its Art Deco Splendor

The Entrance to the Devil's Rope Museum

Some of the Hundreds of Types of Barbed Wire on Display

A Favorite Item, a Barbed Wire Hat

The First Phillips 66 Station in Texas, McClean TX

The Leaning Tower of Groom, TX

The biggest town in the Texas Panhandle is Amarillo and that was our next stop. Since we didn't have breakfast we were getting pretty hungry and so we were ready for our next stop, The Big Texan Steak Ranch, home of the free 72 oz steak. It is an experience to see the side show way they run the restaurant. If you want to take the challenge of the 72 oz steak you have to sit at a special table on a stage. You also have to eat all of the sides with the steak. Oh, by the way the food was okay and the service was bad and none of us attempted the 72 oz steak.

Just west of Amarillo is Cadillac Ranch. 10 Cadillacs planted nose down in a field with their tops facing west. Described by its creator Stanley Marsh as a "Roadside spectacular sculpture," the Cadillacs are set in concrete at the exact angle of the side of the Great Pyramid at Giza. They are covered in graffiti and are repainted every so often to allow new passersby a blank slate though it doesn't take long to have them covered. We were there only a few days after they had last been painted white. We had packed our cans of spray paint to add our own touch to the Caddies. Joe and Ned had great fun tagging the cars.

Leaving Amarillo and Cadillac Ranch behind our last stop in Texas was going to be in Adrian, TX, home of the Mid Point Café and Gift Shop and a slice of Fran’s "ugly crust pie." It is at the geographical mid-point of Route 66. Darn! It was closed for the Fourth.

The Big Texan

Joe Groans at the Thought of the Eatin

The Big Texan Doesn't Skimp on the Butter

Walking to Cadillac Ranch

Ned Takes the Paint to a Cadillac

Joe Works to Create a Masterpiece

The Yellow Paint is Ned's

The Cadillacs in a Row

Crossing into New Mexico the scenery changes from long vistas of flatland to ones of distant mountains. We stopped at the welcome center on the way and then to Tucumari. Tucumari has two iconic Route 66 attractions, Tee Pee Curios and the Blue Swallow Hotel. The Tee Pee Curios was just closing as we pulled in their parking lot and the Blue Swallow was closed and under renovation. We did stop and visit Mesalands Community College’s Dinosaur Museum. It has the world’s largest collection of bronze skeletons, fossils and replicas of prehistoric creatures. The bronzes were created as part of the College’s fine arts program by members of the Mesalands staff. We enjoyed the museum. I think the boys liked it because of they could touch all of the bronzes.

We ended the day in Santa Rosa, NM. Since it was so late we pulled into the La Loma Motel. It a nice place and we could watch the local fireworks from the door to the room. As we watched the fireworks a thunderstorm on the horizon gave us an additional light show as lightning also lit the sky.

Welcome to...

Joe Took This Picture of Ned

The Tee Pee Curios

Crowder Lake University Park, OK to Santa Rosa, NM, 370 miles 8 hrs 5 min

Oklahoma, Where Route 66 Rushes Across the Plain

2008-07-03T18:54:00.007-04:00

The Blue Whale of Catoosa

After getting a late start we made for our first stop of the day, the Blue Whale of Catoosa. The concrete grinning whale was the star of a former swimming hole and is now renovated as a park though no swimming is allowed. You enter its mouth and there are slides where its fins are and its tail is a diving platform.

Next we stopped in Tulsa, OK. We went to the fairgrounds to see the Golden Driller. The Golden Driller is a 76 foot tall statue of an oilman leaning on an actual oil derrick. In 1979 he was selected as Oklahoma's official state monument.

The Golden Driller

Ned and Joe Could Fit in His Boot

Between Tulsa and Oklahoma City there are some classic Route 66 sights. Sapulpa, OK is the home of Frankoma Pottery. Stroud, OK is the site of the Rock Cafe which had an unfortunate fire a few weeks ago. In Arcadia, OK we stopped at the Round Barn, a beloved Route 66 icon. Down the road from the Round Barn we stopped for gas at a place called Pops. It is a shrine to soda pop with a 66 foot tall soda bottle out front and glass walls lined with pop bottles

A Tribute to Sapulpa Industry and Workers Includes Frankoma Pottery

The Rock Cafe After the Fire

The Round Barn of Arcadia

The Walls at Pops are Lined with Bottles

The 66 Foot Tall Bottle on Route 66

Now we were in Oklahoma City, the capital of Oklahoma. The alignment of Route 66 we drove took us right passed the capitol building with an oil derrick on the grounds. Downtown we made a sobering stop at the Oklahoma City National Memorial which honors the 168 victims of the Alfred P. Murrah Federal Building bombing in 1995.

The memorial consists of a lawn, where the building stood, with chairs representing those that lost their lives. Where the road was is a reflecting pool. At either end are the Gates of Time with 9:01 at one end and 9:03 at the other. One minute before the act and the innocence of the city and one minute after when we were changed forever. It is a very moving memorial.

The Oklahoma State Capitol Building

The Oklahoma City National Memorial

This part of Oklahoma has some of the longest stretches of original curbed concrete Route 66 and a long Pony Bridge using 38 "pony" trusses. After Oklahoma City we started to look for a place to stay the night. Red Rock Canyon State Park seemed like the spot. When we got to Red Rock Canyon State Park we found a campsite and started to set up the tent when a woman informed us that the site was "reserved" by her family. There was no park official around to confirm it so we left. After a quick meal in Weatherford, OK we went south a bit to Crowder Lake University Park and found a campsite there.

A Great Stretch of Route 66 Rolls Into the Horizon

The Long Pony Bridge From the Backseat

Claremore, OK to Crowder Lake University Park, OK, 256 miles 10 hrs 25 min

Through Missouri, Kansas and into Oklahoma

2008-07-02T14:21:00.004-04:00

Joe and Ned Conquer the Turtle

Leaving Meramac State Park we returned to Route 66. Just passed Cuba, MO, "Route 66 Mural City", we came across the World's Largest Rocking Chair. In Springfield, MO we stopped at the Bass Pro Shop. Springfield is the home of Bass Pro Shops and the store is huge. Our last stop in Missouri was in Carthage where we visited a farmers' market and the site of a Civil War battle. Unfortunately we wouldn't be in town to go to the 66 Drive-In Theatre.

One of the "Watertowers" in Bourbon, MO

One of the Murals in Cuba, MO

Joe and Ned Sit Under the World's Largest Rocking Chair

Roadside at the Devil's Elbow, MO

Route 66 Drive in Carthage, MO

After Missouri Route 66 enters Kansas for a short 13 miles. On a corner in Baxter Springs, KS there is a rusted old pick-up truck that was the inspiration for Mater in the movie Cars and down the road we met the man who was the inspiration for his personality and backwards driving ability, Dean "Crazy Legs" Walker.

Just outside of Baxter Springs is a old bridge over Brush Creek on Route 66. The bridge is a single-span concrete Marsh arch bridge and is the sole surviving bridge of this type on the entire length of the former highway. When we stopped to take some pictures of the bridge this guy came up and started talking to us about Route 66. It was "Crazy Legs". "Crazy Legs" got his nickname because he can turn his legs so that his feet are pointing backwards. We talked about travelling the mother road and he gave us tips on where to go.

The Rainbow Bridge Near Baxter Springs, KS

Crossing into Oklahoma we made a stop in Miami, OK to eat at Waylan's Ku-Ku Burger the sole survivor of a 200 store chain. Gene Waylan the owner was on hand to oversee the creation of great burgers. Down the road we stopped to view the Coleman Theater a beautiful 1929 Spanish mission styled showpiece that has recently been restored. We only got to see the outside since it was late and missed seeing the elaborate interior.

Another quick stop was made in Foyil, OK to see Totem Pole Park. Ed Galloway started building the totem poles on his property in 1937 completing the largest in 1948. It is 90 feet tall and is made of concrete and steel. There are other smaller totem poles on the site and a gift shop that was the Fiddle House.

The Coleman Theater in Miami, OK

Totem Poles in Foyil, OK

Totem Pole Face Detail

A Smaller Totem Pole and Ned

We ended the day in Claremore, OK. The town is loaded with memorials to its most famous son, Will Rogers including his grave and the Will Rogers Memorial and Museum. Unfortunately the museum was closed but we were able to visit his grave. Since it was very late we stayed in a hotel for the night.

Will Rogers' Grave

Meramac State Park, MO to Claremore, OK, 349 miles 10 hrs 6 min

Gateway to the West

2008-07-01T09:07:00.003-04:00

Ned and Joe at the Top of the Arch

It was so much easier finding our way to St. Louis from the campground this morning then it was finding the campground that even after a late start we were soon downtown. The evening before we had seen the arch from afar and as we drove into the city it was unavoidable.

The Arch Towers Over the Skyline

The Gateway Arch towered over the city’s waterfront and shone in the bright morning sun. The boys were very excited to go up, especially Joe. Gateway Arch is the most visible part of the Jefferson National Expansion Memorial. The Museum of Westward Expansion and entrance to the arch are below ground under the arch. I had been worried that flooding on the Mississippi would close it but, "yeah!", it was open.

After a nation-wide competition in 1947-48, architect Eero Saarinen's inspired design for a 630-foot stainless steel arch was chosen as a perfect monument to the spirit of the western pioneers and as a symbol of St. Louis’s role as the gateway to our country’s westward expansion. Construction began in 1963, and was completed in 1965.

The Arch's foundations are 60 feet into the ground, and it is built to withstand earthquakes and high winds; it sways up to 1 inch in a 20 mph wind, and is built to sway up to 18 inches. A Grand Staircase, underwater because of the flooding, leads from the St. Louis levee up to the base of the Gateway Arch.

After clearing security we purchased a National Parks Pass and tickets to ride up Arch then we got on line for the tram. It has been thirty years since I last visited the arch and it really hasn’t changed much. The ride to the top is a combination elevator, tram car, and amusement park ride. If you are claustrophobic or too wide you might want to pass. If you sit near the windows in the car you can sometimes catch a glimpse of the inside of the Arch's stairs and the drop to the bottom. Once at the top there is a curved observation deck with small windows looking out to the east and the west.

The Arch from Below

Joe and Ned Taking Pictures Out of the Arch Windows

The Old Courthouse

After we descended we watched a movie on Lewis and Clark's trip and attended a ranger talk on how the Native Americans used every part of the buffalo.

Another part of the park we did not visit is the Old Courthouse. It is one of the oldest standing buildings in St. Louis, begun in 1839. It was here that the first two trials of the Dred Scott case were held in 1847 and 1850.

Joe and Ned in the Shadow of the Arch

Hopping back in the car and back onto Route 66 we made one more stop in St. Louis. On the way out of town Route 66 passes a must stop, especially for ice cream fans, Ted Drewes a Route 66 tradition. Since 1941 Ted Drewes has been selling frozen custard to generations of St. Louis residents and millions of travellers on Route 66. One of their specialties is the Concrete, custard mixed with different toppings. Definitely worth a stop back.

Ted Drewes Frozen Custard Since 1941

Ned and Joe Sample the Wares at Ted Drewes

We didn't get very far after leaving St. Louis and stayed the night at Meramac State Park. Along the way we stopped at the Route 66 State Park. It is on the site of the former resort community of Times Beach. It has displays on Route 66 and Times Beach. Times Beach was removed from the face of the earth after the discovery of dioxin contamination. It is now a pleasant spot for walking and picnicking.

A Great Blue Heron By a Pond in Former Times Beach

Pere Marquette State Park, IL to Meramac State Park, MO, 140 miles 3 hrs 52 min

Land of Lincoln

2008-06-30T07:59:00.003-04:00

Ned and Joe, Meet the Gemini Giant

After breakfast with Matt and Sharon we said our goodbyes and headed down Ogden Avenue on old Route 66. As we passed through the southwestern part of Chicagoland the towns got smaller and the road less congested.

Our main stop for the day was Springfield, IL and the Lincoln tour. Springfield was the home of our 16th president when he was elected to the presidency. After his assassination his body was returned home and buried in Oak Ridge Cemetery. His tomb is an impressive 117 feet tall. He is interred inside with his wife, Mary Todd, and three of his four children.

The Outside of Lincoln's Tomb

Lincoln's Headstone

From the cemetery we went to Lincoln's home. It is not an impressive home like Thomas Jefferson's Monticello and I thought it was small. Still, Lincoln's home has proved irresistible to visitors since it opened to the public. Beautifully restored to its 1860 appearance, the Greek Revival house was Abraham and Mary Lincoln's home for 17 years.

The home is run by the National Park Service along with the surrounding four blocks that are being restored to the way it would have been when the Lincolns lived there. From there we went to the Abraham Lincoln Presidential Museum. It has exhibits and films chronicling the life of Lincoln from his early years in a log cabin to his death. The museum is interesting but I think the boys were a little bored.

The Lincoln Home

Ned and Joe on the Tour

Joe and Ned Visiting the Lincolns

Also in Springfield is the Frank Lloyd Wright designed Dana-Thomas house. Unfortunately it was closed for tours but the exterior was beautiful. We stopped at the Cozy Dog Drive In on the way of out town for an original Cozy Dog or corn dog a Route 66 tradition.

The Dana-Thomas House

We continued on through Illinois reaching the Chain of Rocks Bridge by early evening. This bridge used to carry Route 66 traffic across the Mississippi and is now a pedestrian and bike trail. It features a 22 degree bend in the middle of the crossing. We walked across and viewed St Louis downriver.

Our campsite destination for the night was Pere Marquette state park in Grafton, IL. It took a bit longer to get there than I had planned. The river road was flooded from Alton, IL upriver meaning a big detour. I was worried that the campground would be closed but it was open though the marina was underwater.

Old Campbell's "66" Express Featuring Snorting Norton

Joe and Ned Walking the Chain of Rocks

The Arch and St Louis on the Horizon

In Missouri by Foot

Ned Makes His Way Across the Wide Mississippi

The Campground Marina Underwater

Chicago, IL to Pere Marquette State Park, IL, 343 miles 9 hrs 40 min

We Start for Chicago

2008-06-29T07:13:00.008-04:00

Ned and Joe at the Start of Route 66

Our first leg is to Chicago, IL and the beginning of Route 66. We are staying overnight with our friends Matt and Sharon. We started off the morning with a stop at Zingerman's Deli for breakfast with Mom and to pick up goodies for Matt and Sharon. After saying, "Goodbye!" to mom we headed west.

Ned and Joe Ready to Roll

The Family Outside of Zingerman's Deli After Our Farewell Breakfast

It rained most of the way through Michigan though it was dry when we reached Indiana. We made a quick stop for a new hat for Joe and arrived at Matt and Sharon's. After unloading their packages we headed out for a great Mexican meal and then took the El into the loop to walk around Millennium Park and the Taste of Chicago. After hopping the El back we were pretty tired and quickly found ourselves asleep.

Our First State Welcome Sign

Waiting for the El

Ned, Matt and Sharon Napping Under the Bean

Joe and Ned in Front of Buckingham Fountain

The Sign of the Beginning

Ypsilanti, MI to Chicago, IL, 244 miles 4 hrs 32 min

The Great Summer Road Trip 2008

2008-06-15T07:46:00.014-04:00

Ypsilanti to Santa Monica, Yosemite NP, Denver, Mount Rushmore and Home, 6927 miles, 124 hours driving time (estimate)

This year we are traveling to the Western United States. There will be a lot to see. We are stopping in to see Mary's brother and aunt, and travel one of the iconic highways of US history.

From Chicago to LA we are driving Route 66. As the song says, "If you ever plan to motor west, Travel my way, take the highway that is best. Get your kicks on Route Sixty-Six." We are driving through "Saint Looey, Joplin, Missouri, and Oklahoma City." We are going to see "Amarillo, Gallup, New Mexico, Flagstaff, Arizona." We won't "forget Winona, Kingman, Barstow, or San Bernandino." We are hip to the timely tip: "When you make that California trip Get your kicks on Route Sixty-Six."

Mary will join us in Santa Fe where her brother lives and then she will travel with us to Los Angeles. Then my father will join us for us a week through California.

On the way home we will zigzag through Arizona, Utah, and Colorado and then across the Great Plains.

Along the way we will be visiting a number of national parks. The Lincoln Home in Illinois, Gateway Arch in Missouri and Bandelier in New Mexico. In Arizona are stopping at Petrified Forest and both the south and north rims of the Grand Canyon. In California there is Sequoia, Kings Canyon, Yosemite, and Death Valley. Bryce, Zion, and Arches beckon from Utah and Mesa Verde and Rocky Mountain from Colorado. Then up to Devil's Tower in Wyoming and Mount Rushmore in South Dakota.

Like last year there are not many firm dates only the destinations.

Chicago Over Winter Break

2008-02-25T13:10:00.004-05:00

Joe and Ned Self Portrait

We took a quick trip to Chicago this past weekend to visit Matt and Sharon and watch the Oscars. While there we visited the Chicago Botanical Garden and stomped around in the snow. There is quite a lot to see even in the winter. The Japanese Garden was a highlight with the arched bridge leading to the first island and the different lanterns along the trails. Afterwards we stopped a Homer's Ice Cream in Wilmette. They serve up a good cone.

Matt, Sharon, Joe and Mary

One the Stone Lanterns in the Japanese Garden

Sunday we went to the Museum of Science and Industry. We toured the U-505 a German U-Boat that was relocated to a new exhibit space in 2004. The museum has done a nice job of creating displays that give you an understanding of how the U-Boats threatened our war effort in World War II. We also enjoyed the farming exhibit where the boys took turns driving a combine to harvest fields.

After we returned to Matt and Sharon's place and had dinner we watched the Oscars. Matt won the Oscar poll by one vote.

Joe and Ned are Train Engineers

The U-505 at the Museum of Science and Industry

Reflections On Our Trip

2007-08-14T15:39:00.001-04:00

2007 Summer Road Trip, 5176 miles 103 hrs 53 min (driving time)

Our trip this year stayed mostly on plan. It deviated only at the end by not going to Quebec and Montreal. Still the length was same. It was an enjoyable trip. I was able to visit places I have always wanted to see and revisit others. The weather was fine other than the few days of rain and even then we didn't get to wet.

We saw a lot. We saw places that were special not because of who did what or what was built there but because of the beauty of the place or the memories they provided. Some places I may never return
and wish I had taken a picture of, like rows of dancing bears cutout of steel plates, a giant lobster trap, two whale tails along the highway in Vermont, the amazing restaurants along Route 1 North out of Boston, and a huge wooden horse towed behind a pickup truck in New York. (Perhaps heading to Troy?).

Acadia National Park was definitely the favorite. It is a beautiful park with so much to do. We will return there again someday soon hopefully. I would like to go in the off season to avoid some of the crowds, perhaps even in winter. I have always liked Maine and each time I return I wish I could stay.

Other highlights of the trip were Cape Breton Island's Cabot Trail. A more scenic drive may be out there but I don't know of it. Driving up through the mountains with the ocean on one side even in the fog and rain was breathtaking.

Prince Edward Island is a gem. From Charlottetown to the beaches of PEI National Park it was a refreshing stay.

Joe is still talking about the Halifax Citadel and the Fortress of Louisbourg and Ned retells the stories of our hikes.

The people we met all through Maine and Canada were friendly and welcoming. Many going out of their way to help. There were also the accidental fellow travelers that gave a familiar face to the journey. There were a number of people on the ferry from St John, NB to Digby, NS that I kept seeing all along the way through Nova Scotia including an older gentleman on a bike that we passed going the opposite direction on the Cabot Trail. There was a couple from the Netherlands we met at lunch in the Fortress of Louisbourg and then later running into them in a grocery store in Prince Edward Island.

It was also great to see our relatives. The boys love visiting their grandparents, aunts, uncles, and cousins. And having Mary join us on Cape Cod made the visit all the better.

So now we are back and I have started thinking of next year, perhaps Route 66? But for now we are going on vacation to Cape Hatteras for a week on the beach.

By the numbers:
Days on the road: 31 days
Totals miles driven: 5176 miles
Time spent driving: 4 days 7 hrs 53 min
Gas used: 230.37 gallons at $765
Food: $860
Lodging: $423

Two Whales Lost in the Ocean of Farmland in Vermont

Toronto And Home

2007-08-07T14:04:00.001-04:00

The Ambasssdor Bridge, We are Almost Home!

Tuesday morning I awoke with only one thought, "to go home." We had been on the road four and half weeks and we were ready. Unfortunately this meant we would not be stopping in Montreal to meet up with a friend and eat a smoked meat sandwich or visiting the Insectarium de Montreal.

So we loaded up the car had breakfast and headed west. We crossed northern New York and over into Ontario, Canada. We hit traffic just east of Toronto and that would be the norm until we got to Woodstock west of Toronto. We did make a quick stop in downtown Toronto to go to Mountain Equipment Co-op. There was a bag that I saw in the Halifax, NS store that I wanted to buy.

It then started to rain and the traffic got worse. We averaged about 20 mph for the next 70 miles. Eventually it did break up and the rain stopped. Before we knew it we were crossing the Ambassador Bridge over the Detroit River and into the USA. We got through customs quickly and we were home hugging Mom by 9:30 pm.

Plattsburgh, NY to Ypsilanti, MI, 618 miles 12 hrs 2 min

Mt Washington and Ice Cream

2007-08-06T11:51:00.001-04:00

Ned and Joe Pick Out the Perfect Camper

Since we slept in the car last night I was up early and headed out to look for a place to have breakfast. North Conway, NH is one of those outlet Mecca’s. Since New Hampshire has no sales tax they are popular but they don’t open until 9:00 am. So after breakfast we drove to the base of Mount Washington to take the Mount Washington Auto Road to summit of Mount Washington.

The Auto Road was opened in 1861 as a carriage route to the 6,288 ft summit. It is 8 miles to the top and some parts are not for the faint of heart. The weather on the summit looked clear from the base of the drive but by the time we reached the top it had changed. Clouds were swirling around us and the wind was picking up. The summit is home to a number of buildings including the Mount Washington Observatory. In 1934 the scientists at the observatory measured the world’s highest surface wind speed record of 231 miles per hour. Fortunately the wind wasn't quite near that for us. Clouds moving in blocked our view so we climbed back in the car for the drive down. As we descended it began to rain. After stopping at some of the outlets we started for Vermont.

A New Hampshire Covered Bridge

The Clouds Swirl Around Mount Washington

Hang On! Joe Summits Mount Washington

While Ned Shelters Behind Some Rocks

We took the Kancamagus Scenic Byway (Rt. 112) from Conway. It is a 28 mile road through the heart of the White Mountains that climbs to nearly 3000 ft. It is designated a National Forest Scenic Byway and may be the most scenic route in New Hampshire. The last time I was on this road was in June and it was snowing, this time it was raining so the scenery was muted. We eventually entered Vermont and drove to Waterbury, VT for our next stop.

Waterbury, VT is the location of the Ben & Jerry’s Factory. They have scheduled tours to view the making of their ice cream. The factory grounds is sort of like a small fair with games for the kids, a flavor graveyard and of course a scoop shop. You do get to sample some ice cream at the end of the tour but we had to wait one and half hours for our tour so what else are you going to do?

Is That an Ice Cream Factory?

Ned and Joe on Ice Cream

Ned Sampling the Wares While Thinking of His Next Flavor

After the tour we took off for Burlington, VT. By this time we were ready to get home so I made Plattsburgh, NY our goal. With it raining and the broken tent pole I decided to stay the night in a hotel. A quick ferry ride across Lake Champlain and we were in Plattsburgh and to bed.

The Ferry Across Lake Champlain to Plattsburgh, NY

Conway, NH to Plattsburgh, NY, 179 miles 7 hrs 17 min

Biking Acadia And Off To New Hampshire

2007-08-05T23:08:00.001-04:00

Joe and Ned at One of the Gate Houses Leading to the Carraige Trails

When we woke up Sunday morning we discovered that the storm the night before had broken one the tent poles that hold up the fly on the tent. Since we could not get a third night at the campground we were staying at I decided that we would spend the day in Acadia, do some laundry and then head for New Hampshire.

The weather was beautiful and after breaking camp we headed into Bar Harbor and rented bikes. So far we had done a lot of hiking in Acadia National Park but there is another activity that is possibly more popular, biking the carriage trails.

Between 1913 and 1940 John D. Rockeller, Jr. constructed forty-five miles of rustic carriage roads and gave them to the park. They flow around the mountains and valleys of the park. Rockefeller, a skilled horseman, wanted to travel on motor-free byways via horse and carriage into the heart of Mount Desert Island. His construction efforts resulted in roads with sweeping vistas and close-up views of the landscape and include 16 stone faced bridges and two gatehouses. They are gravel roads and crisscross the park. Perfect for biking.

We rented a bike and an add-a-bike for me and Ned and a bike for Joe. After taking the Island Explorer Bike Express to Eagle Lake we headed south to Jordan Pond. The way was easy at first then there is a long climb which we had to walk up some. After coasting the hill down Joe was getting tired. I suggested we go the Jordan Pond House for a popover snack and he hopped back on and pedaled off.

After our break we headed back north to Eagle Lake. The way back was hard on Joe. He kept stopping and walking his bike and one point sat down and decided he was done. He did get back on though and we made it back just in time to catch the Bike Express to town.

Eagle Lake

Colorful Waterplants

Ned Tries to Ride the Big Bike

Joe Taking a Water Break

Once we returned the bikes we made a stop at the laundromat did some laundry and then left for New Hampshire. We got to Conway New Hampshire around 9:00 pm. Since it was so late I thought we would stay at an hotel but they were either full or too expensive so we ended up sleeping in the car at National Forest campground near Conway.

Bar Harbor, ME to Conway, NH, 225 miles 4 hrs 44 min

We Are Back In Acadia National Park

2007-08-04T09:57:00.003-04:00

Joe and Ned are Ready to Hike

We are back in Acadia National Park? Yes indeed. When we left last time I said I would be back but I didn't know it would be this soon and unfortunately without Mary. Well we so close how could we resist.

After making camp Friday night a thunderstorm came through which had me worried that we would not be able to get onto the mountains. But come Saturday morning it was hazy but not raining. We made a stop in Southwest Harbor to visit the Little Notch Bakery for breakfast and a loaf of bread then the library to check email. Then to Bar Harbor to get a map since I mailed my maps home when we left two weeks ago and pick up some cheese. By this time it was dry so we headed to the trailhead.

The trail we picked was the Ladder Trail up Dorr Mountain. It only had to ladders to the boys dismay. To my dismay it is mostly granite stairs going straight up the mountain. Parts of it made me think of the passage in The Return of the King where Gollum leads Frodo and Sam into Mordor by way of the stairs to Cirith Ungol. Fortunately there was no giant spider just great views and many blueberries.

The Stairs of the Ladder Trail

A Tight Squeeze

The Summit of Dorr Mountain 1270 ft

I had a few ideas of the way to take back down once we were at the summit of Dorr Mountain. But as I looked at the map and over at Cadillac Mountain I thought, "we can do that." So we extended the hike to climb up Cadillac and then down to Bubble Pond where we would catch the Island Explorer Shuttle bus back to the car. Sounds easy.

The half mile to the top of Cadillac is one hardest half miles I have hiked. The stairs up Dorr Mtn had really done me in, more than I realized. But, we made it and I lived to tell about it. We stopped at the top of Caddilac Mountain to admire the view and then started down the western side to Bubble Pond. It was a hard mile and a half mostly down large slabs of granite. We made it just in time to catch the shuttle bus and soon we were back at the car.

We had dinner in Southwest Harbor and that night we had a campfire. We were so tired that we didn't watch it long and went to bed.

Cadillac Mountain from the Top of Dorr Mountain

Joe and Ned Look Out Over Mount Desert Island

The Summit of Cadillac Mountain 1530 ft

The Way Down to Bubble Pond

Bubble Pond

The Hike from the Tarn to Bubble Pond

Joe Reflects Over the Day at the Campfire

A Day Of Superlatives And The Return To Acadia

2007-08-03T15:44:00.000-04:00

Joe, Ned and Lobsterman With the World's Largest Lobster

Friday morning we were up early and on our way. In the planning phase of the trip I was going to go to Quebec City from Prince Edward Island. It was the one part of the trip that I didn’t like. Not Quebec, but the drive there. 12 hours plus from PEI through a lot of backwoods. So when we left PEI it was with the idea of going back through New Brunswick, Maine, New Hampshire, Vermont and then up to Montreal.

We took the Confederation Bridge to get off of the island. The 14 km long Confederation Bridge was built in 1997 as an alternative way to get to PEI from the Canadian mainland. When we crossed it was very hazy so that you couldn’t see far across the bridge.

PEI in the Rearview Mirror and New Brunswick in the Distance

The Confederation Bridge the Longest Bridge to Span Ice Covered Waters

Once in New Brunswick we took a side trip to Shediac, NB to see the World’s Largest Lobster. The Shediac lobster is 35 ft long and sits at the entrance to the east side of town. From Shediac and the Lobster we stopped a Hartland, NB to see the Longest Covered Bridge in the World. The first of many covered bridges we would see in the next few days but certainly the longest.

Joe Having Lobster Problems

The Sign Says It All

From Hartland, NB it is a quick drive to the border of Maine and the USA though it took about 30 minutes to cross. While we were waiting a thunderstorm blew in and knocked the power out but after answering the border agent’s questions and having him search the back of the car we were back in the USA. At this point I wasn’t sure where we going. I thought of going to Baxter State Park but with the storm blowing through I passed on it. As I looked at the map I realized we were going to be close to Acadia again. When I mentioned this out loud the boys both asked if we could go back. After a quick stop in Bangor we did.

The problem with visiting Acadia National Park on the spur of the moment, in August, late in the day is that we had a hard time finding a place to stay. We ended up on the Western part of Mount Desert Island at a private campground. They found a site for us and we set up camp in the dark.

Cavendish, PEI to Acadia National Park, ME, 504 miles 12 hrs 7 min

Three Days On Prince Edward Island

2007-08-02T17:08:00.001-04:00

Joe and Ned Visiting Anne's House

On July 31 we were up early because we slept in the car the night before. We found a spot to have breakfast and then went to the Cavendish campground for PEI National Park. We got on the waiting list for a campsite and then went to visit the sites.

The main attraction in Cavnedish is the Green Gables Heritage Site. It is the house that inspired Lucy Maud Montgomery's vision of the home where Anne Shirley lives in Anne of Green Gables. Since we were so early we were the only ones there and we were able to explore the home and grounds without having to jostle or wait our turn. On the site is a trail through the Haunted Woods and Lovers' Lane both from the story.

Anne's Bedroom

Ned Tries Milking

Down Lovers' Lane

The Red Earth of Prince Edward Island

After visiting Green Gables we went down the road and stopped at the Lucy Maud Montgomery homestead site. The building is gone and only the cellar remains of the home in which she was raised by her grandparents. There are paths that lead from there to the cemetary where she is buried.

We had listened to Anne of Green Gables while we drove through Nova Scotia and the visit made it very real.

We then went into Charlottetown to visit the library and do some shopping. When we got back to the PEI National Park we did get a campsite.

The next two days were laid back ones. We went to the beach which was about 150 yards from the campsite. The beach is lovely wide and long and mostly empty of people. The water seemed cold at first but once in was nice. We spent most of the beach time making large river systems in the sand.

Joe and Ned are Ready for the Beach

One of the Rivers

Prince Edward Island National Park

Walking Back to Camp

We also stopped for ice cream at Cows a PEI ice cream chain that is very good. One night we played mini-golf at a golf course with a giant lobster.

It was very relaxing and the weather was great. We were only going to be there two days but it was so nice we stayed an extra day.

Relaxing at the Campsite

Ned Swings by the Potatoes

The Lobster Trap

Fortress of Louisbourg And Alexander Graham Bell

2007-07-30T10:08:00.002-04:00

Ned and Joe at Fortress of Louisbourg

Monday started off wet. It rained all night and into the morning. A good hard rain when you are in a tent is not fun. After about the fifth hour I started to notice that the tent was leaking in a few spots. Fortunately the rain stopped around 7:30 am and the tent leaked very little, nothing a few socks were not able to soak up.

The reason we were in the Southeast corner of Nova Scotia was to visit the Fortress of Louisbourg. The fortress was founded by the French in 1719 to protect their lucrative cod fisheries. Unfortunately they were competing with the British over this and the control over North America. In 1745 the British lay seige and captured the town. It was given back to the French three years later by treaty. In 1758 the British again captured the town and this time razed it.

In 1961 the Canadian government began a reconstruction of the town and fortifications. When you enter the town you are transported back to 1744 a year before the first siege. There are re-enactors throughout the village and fortress taking on the different roles of bakers, soldiers, cooks, fisherman etc.

When we tried to enter the gate the soldier on guard demanded to know where we from and what our business was. He quite put off to find that we were "British" and possible spies. Ned vouched for us we were allowed to enter.

Because of the wet weather I thought our visit was a bit more realistic. The fog was thick and nothing could be seen beyond the town. The ground was muddy and people had mud on them. The downside was being cold and wet. We still spent about five hours there looking in the different buildings, watching the blacksmiths, talking to the villagers, watching a cannon being fired and having a meal at one of the taverns.

The Approach to the Fortress of Loiusbourg

The Children at Dance and Song

The Waterfront Street of Louisbourg

The Frederick Gate

Joe Watches for the British

Overseeing the Troops

The Fortress Wall in the Fog

Ned and Joe Visiting

Conversing in the Kitchen

Saying au revoir to the fortress we started for Prince Edward Island. On the way we made a stop in Baddeck, NS, to visit the Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site. Bell decided to build a vacation home in Baddeck in 1885 after visiting because in his words, "I have traveled the globe. I have seen the Canadian and American Rockies, the Andes and the Alps and the highlands of Scotland, but for simple beauty, Cape Breton outrivals them all." The museum has exhibits on Bell´s wide ranging interests and inventions, much of it undertaken at Baddeck.

From Baddeck we drove to Caribou to catch the ferry to Prince Edward Island. Originally I had not planned to take the ferry to PEI but I found out that you have to pay one way, to get off the island. We managed to catch the 7:30 pm ferry and soon found ourselves in Cavendish.

We were going to stay at one of the campgrounds in Prince Edward Island National Park reccomended by our guide book. After driving around for a while I could not find it and after stopping to ask for directions found out that it was shutdown three to four years prior. So much for our up to date guide books, I should have called ahead. We went to one of the other campgrounds and ending up sleeping in the car. The facilities were in such bad shape that I decided in the morning we would try and get a spot at the Cavendish campground.

The Ferry to Prince Edward Island

The Woods Island Light on Prince Edward Island

Louisbourg, NS to Cavendish, PEI, 310 miles 6 hrs 25 min

Driving The Cabot Trail

2007-07-29T16:25:00.001-04:00

Ned and Joe Posing in the Role of Moose

The next morning the weather looked like rain but it hadn't started by the time we broke camp. We set off. It would take three to four hours to drive the Cabot Trail without stops. That is impossible. Perhaps if you have driven it ten or more times you might become immune to the views. It took us almost seven hours. We stopped at many overlooks and hiked some of the trails. We drove up side roads to see waterfalls. There is still more that I would have like to see.

Our first stop other than a scenic pullout was at MacIntosh Brook. It is about a one and half mile hike through an old growth forest along a brook with small waterfalls. It was a good early morning way to loosen the legs and wake us up. The parking area has a kitchen shelter and when we finished the hike we fired up the stove and had our breakfast. While we ate it began to pour so our next stop wasn't until Beulach Ban Falls a bit further down the road. We continued along the Cabot Trail until we came to the Atlantic coast where we stopped at Green Cove.

Looking Down to Fishing Cove

The View to Pleasant Bay

I'm Telling You There are No Moose!

Green Cove is a small rocky headland that juts out into the ocean. It is formed of some really neat boulders of pinkish rock with intrusions of a highly crystalized granite forming lines and crosses. Down the road from there we turned down a side road to view Mary Ann Falls. They were crowded and there were people swimming the pools beneath them.

Green Cove

Joe and Ned Clamboring Over the Boulders

Our last stop along the Cabot Trail was to hike Middle Head. Middle Head is a long headland creating North and South Ingonish Bays. It is a two and half mile hike starting at the Keltic Lodge. The hike goes through some forests and meadows and has rocky cliffs on the sides and at the end for great views up the coast and to Cape Smokey to the south.

Wildflowers

Go Ahead Jump

The End of Middle Head

The Keltic Lodge Near Ingonish, NS

After the hike we said goodbye to the Cabot Trail and headed for the Southeast corner of Cape Breton Island taking the ferry at Englishtown and camping south of Sydney, NS at Mira River Provincal Park.

The Englishtown Ferry

Chéticamp, NS to Mira River, NS, 165 miles 8 hrs 28 min

To Cape Breton Island

2007-07-28T10:45:00.000-04:00

The Cabot Trail

From Halifax we headed for Cape Breton Island and the Cabot Trail. Along the way we stopped in Stellarton to visit the Nova Scotia Museum of Industry. It is a hands on exploration of the industries in Nova Scotia from the past to the present. We were early so some displays were not quite set up but the boys had a good time.

Ned the Engineer

Tire Boys

Crossing the Canso Causeway we entered Cape Breton Island. At this point there are a number of ways to go and I decided to take the northerly, coast hugging Highway 19 the Ceilidh Trail. It is a pretty drive and we soon arrived in Chéticamp which for us was the beginning of the Cabot Trail.

The Cabot Trail is a 180 mile drive around the northern part of Cape Breton Island most of it being inside Cape Breton Highlands National Park. It is a beautiful drive with many pulloffs to view the vistas of deep valleys, mountains and ocean.

After we arrived in Chéticamp we made camp at the National Park's Chéticamp campground. It was early so we headed up the Cabot Trail a few miles to hike the Skyline Trial. The Skyline is 6 mile loop that goes out onto a headland about 950 ft above the ocean. Views are spectacular. The trail back is through a forest where moose are often spotted. We saw lots of moose sign but the only mammal was a lone ground squirrel. The woods were full of bird calls clear and bright.

On the way back to the campsite we saw a group of people on the side of the road with cameras. Slowing down to take a look we saw they were looking at a bull moose. He was munching his way around a shrub. He would be our only moose sighting. Other travellers I talked to reported seeing mothers and calves, two bulls, black bears and cubs, and bald eagles. One woman from the Netherlands told me they saw six moose. We saw only the one moose and ground squirrels. Bird wise is was terns, gulls, cormorants and crows.

The Cabot Trail Looking South

The Skyline Trail Boardwalk

Wildflowers and Tree Trunk

Our Only Moose

The Cabot Trail Winding Its Way North

Halifax, NS to Chéticamp, NS, 266 miles 7 hrs 8 miin

To And About Halifax, Nova Scotia

2007-07-27T16:13:00.001-04:00

Joe Ask the Highlanders What Is Under...the Big Stone Behind Them

The drive to Halifax was interesting. We stopped in Annapolis Royale to visit the Annapolis Tidal Generating Station. It is the only generating plant in North America using the energy from tides. The boys were disappointed because they wanted to go on a tour but you had to be 16 or older.

We then headed across the interior of Nova Scotia passing by Kejimkujik National Park. Just south of there we almost wrecked the car when we came around a turn and found a black bear in the middle of the road. It was large cub and once it saw us it quickly ran into the woods. I thought it wise not to follow.

The Annapolis Tidal Generating Station

After a quick visit to the town of Liverpool we next stopped at Lunenburg. Lunenburg is a UN designated World Heritage Site but I mostly wanted to see the Bluenose, a famous sailboat. Unfortunately it was in Prince Edward Island. We moved on through Mahone Bay, the city of churches and very near Oak Island home of the money pit. Soon we were in Halifax.

We camped across the harbor in Dartmouth at Shubie Park.

This morning we drove into Dartmouth and took the commuter ferry across the harbor to Halifax. We wandered down the harbor front and visited with Theodore Tugboat before going to the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic. The museum contains boats, models of boats and ships, a chandlery, shipwrecks including relics from the Titanic and a pirate exhibit. There is quite a bit to see and we spent a lot longer there than I had planned.

Halifax from the Ferry

Halifax is Big Harbour of Theodore Tugboat

The Only Deck Chair Recovered from the Titanic

We had to get back to the car since our meter was running out so hopped the ferry back and then drove into the city to visit the the Halifax Citadel.

The Citadel is on a hill overlooking the city and is very impressive. The boys loved it, especially Joe. I think we explored every nook of the place. They have a History Hunt that if you get all of the questions correct you get a free cookie which the boys both received.

After the Citadel we stopped at the Halifax Public gardens for a quick stroll then headed back to the campsite. I wanted to get up early tomorrow to make the drive to Cape Breton Island.

Joe Taking Notes on How to Fire a Cannon

New Recruits Ready For Duty

The Halifax Public Gardens are Beautiful

Digby, NS to Halifax, NS, 230 miles 7 hrs 17 min

Reversing Falls, A Ferry, And Whales

2007-07-25T15:48:00.002-04:00

A Trip Through Maine Is Not Complete Without Blueberries

We left later than we wanted from Acadia National Park. Perhaps it was the park keeping me from getting up when alarm went off or it calling for me to stay and linger a little bit longer. But we did get up and broke camp and headed for Canada.

We took the scenic Route 1 along the Maine coast but because of the late start we could not stop along the way. When we reached Calais we had lunch and a fifteen minute wait at the border. We managed to get to St. John, New Brunswick with enough time to stop and view the Reversing Falls. They are rapids on the St John river that reverse direction when the tide comes in. It takes a while to watch them reverse, about 5 hours. We went to catch the ferry.

The ferry trip was nice. The ship was large and comfortable. We watched a movie and Joe and I saw some whales from the deck. One was spouting and I saw a whale tail. There were some porpoises swimming in the bow wake but when we got there they were gone. It was late when we got in to Digby, Nova Scotia so we decided to stay at an hotel.

The Reversing Falls

Our Ship Comes In

The Bow Opens to Let Us In

Driving on the Princess of Acadia

Nova Scotia

Bar Harbor, ME to Digby, NS, 215 miles 8 hrs 59 min (Including time on ferry)

Mountains of Acadia

2007-07-24T19:41:00.001-04:00

Atop Beech Mountain

Our last day in Acadia National Park was one of contrasts. We walked across tidal pools and climbed two of the smaller mountains in the park.

We started in the morning for the western part of Mount Desert Island driving to the bustling town of Southwest Harbor. Southwest Harbor is a nice town. I thought it much nicer than Bar Harbor since the throngs of tourists are absent. Yes we were there but we are not much of a throng though the boys attempt to be sometimes. There is a very good bakery, a nice grocery store and the library is wonderful.

From there we drove along route 102A to the natural seawall and explored the tidal pools. They were filled mostly with snails and kelp. Driving on we stopped at the Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse one of the most picturesque lighthouses in Maine. The highlight for the boys was climbing the huge rocks and watching a lobsterman pulling up his traps, emptying them and sending back to the depths.

Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse

A Lobsterman Checking His Traps

Next stop was Echo Lake where we had lunch. After lunch we climbed Beech Mountain. The trail from Echo Lake is called Canadian Cliffs. It is a ladder trail which means that there are ladders fastened to the cliff face to help your ascent. Once at the top we took the Beech Cliffs loop for some great views. Coming down the ladders was the hardest part of the trail.

Joe and Ned Ascend a Ladder

The Canadian Cliffs Trail

Atop Beech Mountain

A Camouflaged Grasshopper Cannot Escape Joe

After this climb we were ready for, another climb. This time we went back to the eastern part of the island to tackle the Beehive. Not as challenging as the Precipice trail which climbs 1058 ft Champlain Mountain to the north the Behive at 520 ft is a great hike. The Behive is a ladder trail up the southern face. There are no ladders on this trail but iron rungs pounded into the granite cliff face to use as handholds and footholds. The boys loved it and I had to call to them to slow down.

We came down a trial that goes around the back of the Beehive by a hidden pond called the Bowl. The trail was laden with blueberries (note the "was") and the pond had beaver lodges and many frogs.

At the Start of the Beehive Trail

Our Goal the Beehive

Up the Side of the Beehive

Taking a Rest on One of the Ladder Sections

Don't Look Down!

The View From the Top

Blueberries on the Trail

After a late dinner we went to Sand Beach to partake in Stars Over Sand Beach though we left before it was over since it was late and we had to break camp in the morning to catch our ferry in St John.

Acadia National Park is as beautiful and glorious as remember it from 20 years ago when I last visited. Bar Harbor and the park was much more crowded though we were there at the height of the season. There were many things we didn't see or do like biking on the carriage trails but that only means we will have to come back and spend more time. One thing is for certain I am not going to wait another 20 years to return and Mary is coming with me.